Kitchen appliances

[Eddiesparks]

There is more than one way to skin a cat and more than one way to wire kitchen appliances!

I have often seen switched FCUs feeding socket outlets in kitchens which is ok for an extractor for example as you can put 13a 1361 in FCU and then discrimination achieved thru the use of 3a 1361 in plug top.

But I am not keen on this for an oven for example which has a 13a fuse. Lack of discrimination etc although not the worst crime in the world I suppose!

some people like putting sockets in adjacent cupboards etc.

i like the the idea of using a DP switch either at 'above worktop' height. (Ie 1100mm ish) or in cup'd and then putting SINGLE socket for appliance down below for appliance.

Now, what I am asking is that technically the 20a switch is protected by a 32a breaker (assuming 2.5mm RFC or 4mm radial 'clipped direct') BUT it is for a load of maximum 13 amps by virtue of being a single socket. Is this all OK regs wise? common sense says it is but wanted your collective years of wisdom on this

Any other ideas or thing that you lot do?

thanks everyone

Ed

 

[telectrix]

it's fine. the 20A rating ofd the switch is just it's max. load. you could fit a 100A switch if you wanted.

 

[Eddiesparks]

Other option is using an FCU and sticking a nail where the fuse should be ;-)

 

[Amp David]

Marked grid switch with unswitched socket every time. Its the switch thats rated at 20 amp

 

[willy fixit]

I prefer a socket outlet accessed from in an adjacent cupboard. I try to avoid too many accessories to tile around. I like to (if practicable) have the oven on it's own 32a supply to allow for upgrades.
Just did some work for a kitchen fitter who refused to cut holes in the back of the units and siliconed the plinths - if a fuse goes he'll be getting a call out to access the socket.
Needless to say he needs to find another electrician!