Kitchen extractor/lighting rig- your thoughts?

[flipper]

I am refurbishing my kitchen - I have opened up the front of a chimney breast which is directly in the middle of the wall where my kitchen units are going (and previously were) - the chimney breast is only around 280mm deep so I am making up a custom
extractor/down light rig.

this is what I want to do:

# 2 downlights in ceiling above area where hob will be (in front of a chimney breast which has been opened up)
# 2 downlights inside chimney breast either side of an extractor fan (see below)
# Extractor fan (Manrose XF150 220-240 volts AC. 50Hz. Single phase consuming 20 Watts)

I want to have an on/off switch for each of the elements above.

Currently have a 1.5mm cable which previously supplied power for an extractor that was there (this is terminated under the floorboards at the moment) - this cable is coming off a JB that is part of the kitchen ring main.

So my questions are

# what rating isolator should I use (3A OK?)
# should I stick with the 1.5mm cable to provide power or upgrade to 2.5mm (at least from JB to Isolator?)
# any recommendations for switching the components on/off - would a 3 gang 2 way switch like this be appropriate:
MK Logic Plus 10AX 3-Gang 2-Way Light Switch White - https://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-logic-plus-10ax-3-gang-2-way-light-switch-white/11860

OR

will the extractor fan be unsuitable for it - in which case what are my options?

Many thanks in anticipation - and happy new year!

 

[Mike Johnson]

Any reason for not using a normal hob extractor?

The proposed extractor is not suitable as it does not have a grease filter.

 

[flipper]

Any reason for not using a normal hob extractor?

The proposed extractor is not suitable as it does not have a grease filter.

There is not enough depth for a normal extractor unless I go for a 'visor' which I don't really want.
The Manrose extractor is probably cheap enough to replace every few years - I don't know if not having a grease filter otherwise makes any difference to it being able to do its job - it is clearly advertised as a kitchen extractor fan.
I am really interested/hoping that someone will help with the technical questions.
Thanks for the response though.

 

[Mike Johnson]

You say there is not enough depth for a normal extractor? can you provide a drawing or photo to clarify that?

There is a big difference between a kitchen extractor (air and cooking smells) to a hob extractor filtering out grease and steam from cooking pots, you need an electrician to sort out the wiring for the different circuits you want, but the easiest solution is a purpose made hob extractor, there are hundreds of different type on the market and I am sure if you spend enough time browsing you will find one suitable.

 

[flipper]

You say there is not enough depth for a normal extractor? can you provide a drawing or photo to clarify that?

There is a big difference between a kitchen extractor (air and cooking smells) to a hob extractor filtering out grease and steam from cooking pots, you need an electrician to sort out the wiring for the different circuits you want, but the easiest solution is a purpose made hob extractor, there are hundreds of different type on the market and I am sure if you spend enough time browsing you will find one suitable.

The depth is 265mm deep (I said 280mm earlier!)
Believe me I have spent a fair amount of time surfing - I may have a second look at the 'Visor' types again, I would still like to hear from an electrician on my questions though - if I went for a 'Visor' extractor my last question would change to: # would a 2 gang 2 way switch be appropriate to switch the extractor and 2 ceiling downlights on/off?
Like this one MK Logic Plus 10AX 2-Gang 2-Way Light Switch White - https://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-logic-plus-10ax-2-gang-2-way-light-switch-white/16201?tc=AA6&ds_kid=92700055281954484&ds_rl=1249401&gclid=CjwKCAiArbv_BRA8EiwAYGs23AClB6D5IXCznnNnXi_uTR7hieJZA-qkcB4iSatDiLZysHNR5ScOphoCYmMQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
BTW the internal bricks to the chimney breast (left hand side of the breast) that formed part of the internal 'turn' for the flue are going to be removed.
Many thanks

 

[westward10]

Yes those switches would be fine but I echo Mike's view here you shouldn't use that extractor for the removal of cooking fumes as it will clog up with grease etc and seize. If you get a purpose made hood extractor it will come with lights and control switches.

 

[Mike Johnson]

Have a look at these: angled extractor hood - Recherche Google - https://www.google.com/search?q=angled+extractor+hood&rlz=1C5CHFA_enGB718GB718&oq=Angled+&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j0i67i457j0i67l3j69i60l3.4017j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

And here: Cheap Angled Cooker Hoods Deals at Appliances Direct - https://www.appliancesdirect.co.uk/st/angled-cooker-hoods

 

[DefyG]

This might fit the bill (LexAir Small Ceiling Hood), but a tad more than a Manrose XF150

 

[flipper]

Hi
Much to think about - I will look into the info given - appreciated.

BTW I tried to edit my last post but could not find a way to do so?!# - I got jumbled up - if I go for a 'standard' extractor I will not need to switch it on/off remotely (well, I will have an isolator) and will only need a light switch for the 2 ceiling downlights.

many thanks

 

[Mike Johnson]

You have been told twice that a standard extractor is not suitable, but you know better, good luck you will need it.