UK Kitchen grid switch help

[ibra123]

Hello everyone, I'd like to seek your input on a matter. I'm in the process of designing the electrical connections for the following kitchen appliances:

Hob
Oven (below 2kW)
Fridge/Freezer
Dishwasher
Washing machine
Extract Hood

For the hob, I intend to connect it to a cooker connection unit (located below the counter) and then to a 45A cooker unit (above the counter) on a dedicated circuit.

As for the remaining appliances, my plan is to wire them to unswitched 13A sockets (positioned below the counter) and then connect them to a 6-Gang grid switch, which will be part of a 32A ring circuit.

Now, I have concerns about the potential load being too high for a single circuit. Is it possible to establish two separate circuits for the grid switch without the need for an ugly warning notice?

Additionally, I've been pondering whether placing all these appliances on a 32A ring circuit might result in the 13A fuse in the appliance plug blowing first in case of an overcurrent issue. This would require users to remove the appliance and replace the fuse. Any thoughts on this matter?

 

[pc1966]

Incidentally what are the rules for disabled access for sockets or switches in a cupboard?

I suspect in many cases placing isolator switches in there might struggle to meet that aspect as well.

 

[Dustydazzler]

Incidentally what are the rules for disabled access for sockets or switches in a cupboard?

I suspect in many cases placing isolator switches in there might struggle to meet that aspect as well.

for all new builds I can imagin putting switches in the back of a cupboard not meet the current regs for diability access/

but for 99% of kitchen wiring i do its older houses and the customer can tell me they don't want any switches on show so my only option is in the cupboard or no switches at all all just use the RCBO for isolation

 

[timhoward]

but for 99% of kitchen wiring i do its older houses and the customer can tell me they don't want any switches on show so my only option is in the cupboard or no switches at all all just use the RCBO for isolation

I get this a lot too. I will agree to single sockets within the cupboards if they reject isolators above the worktop.

I'm actually completely sick of kitchens at the moment.
The current 'design' I'm trying to deliver has plinth, under cabinet, and in cupboard lights, 3 pendants above an island unit (centred below an I beam RSJ!) and 10 downlights. It's also a low ceiling with cupboards nearly touching the ceiling. Very little spare wall space. A further 'minimalist stipulation' means finding room for switches for all the Blackpool illuminations is going to be quite interesting.

The extractor point has been first fixed, completely boarded over, amazingly located again with minimal damage, only for the design to change and now require moving.
The original spec was electric single oven, gas hob, and it's now two double ovens and microwave and induction hob.
The clients are a lovely couple and every time the kitchen people get in touch they get 'sold' more and more silly things. There's now a wine cooler slotted in and they barely touch a drop!

These so called kitchen designers need to stop smoking whatever they smoke and spend a week in the jungle with a wind up torch and a can of spam.

 

[Dustydazzler]

I love and hate kitchen rewires in equal parts. some i make a good money on doing the job with minimal alterations to the original spec and other are a right pain in the arse like you say things move , change and swap constantly which means me going back sometimes 6 or 7 times to re-route cables and try to find solutions to get extra cables in once the plasterer has been in etc

Another reason I charge high and never EVER give a fixed price when it comes to kitchens , its hourly rate or get your builder do the wiring instead of me

 

[ibra123]

We're deviating a bit from the original post's intent. It would be helpful to confirm how one would wire the kitchen appliances using a 6-gang grid switch to inform future project proposals.

In my view, I'd place the washing machine on a separate circuit (radial), and the rest (oven, dishwasher, extractor hood, fridge) on a ring circuit. If the oven exceeds 2kW, I'd allocate a dedicated circuit for it. However, I'm uncertain whether I can have two circuits connected to the grid switch without needing an unsightly warning label on the front of the grid switch.

 

[littlespark]

There are many examples of two or more lighting circuits in the same box without warning labels, so why would a grid switch be any different.

Hopefully any future work is done by a qualified electrician who should test for voltage before disconnecting anything.

 

[Dustydazzler]

There are many examples of two or more lighting circuits in the same box without warning labels, so why would a grid switch be any different.

Hopefully any future work is done by a qualified electrician who should test for voltage before disconnecting anything.

Agree

an half decent electrician when faced with working on a multi way switch , be it light switch or a kitchen grid would check for voltage before working on it

equally I would say at least once a month i come across a socket where the legs of the rings have been jumbled up so you have 2 circuits interconnected and you have to switch off 2 circuits to work on the socket

a label or just a message in sharpie on the back of the grid plate is a nice idea to mention 2 circuits present but the sparks should still test before working on it

 

[littlespark]

A 6 gang grid switch is going to be a double height thing.
Would making it 2 x 3 gangs be better next to each other. ( or a 4 and a 2)
Might look cleaner alongside sockets of same height.

Then you could separate the circuits out??

 

[ibra123]

A 6 gang grid switch is going to be a double height thing.
Would making it 2 x 3 gangs be better next to each other. ( or a 4 and a 2)
Might look cleaner alongside sockets of same height.

Then you could separate the circuits out??

Great idea, thank you mate