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Discuss Kitchen Led under cabinet lighting in the Lighting Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Hi i hope someone has the answer to this.

Ok we have just had a new kitchen fitted and i have installed under cabinet lighting 12 volt. It is Led strip and 1 side cabinet is 1.6 meters long and the other side is 2 meters long. I have 2 power supplies 1 for each side. they are 12 volt linked to the wall switch.

Now my problem is about every 2 weeks when i switch them on it trips my fuse in the main fuse board. just the ground lights fuse and nothing else. the spot lights and pendents don't do this.

The led stripe roll is 24 watts per roll and i got a 5 meter roll but used less than that. The power supply's are input 240v 50-60hz, Output 12v DC6.66A 80 watts and this has 2 12v outlets but im only using 1 each side.

I have tried different Led strip tape but did the same.

I have found a mention of inrush! am i right in thinking its like a sudden serge to power to the leds or power supply?

I know my house electrics are all fine as i have had a full electrical test after my building work was finished and signed off.

See pictures attached of whats fitted and my fuse bored. Is it possible to up-rate the ground lights fuse in the main fuse bored?

Please help.

Regards

Pat Slight

[ElectriciansForums.net] Kitchen Led under cabinet lighting

[ElectriciansForums.net] Kitchen Led under cabinet lighting

[ElectriciansForums.net] Kitchen Led under cabinet lighting

[ElectriciansForums.net] Kitchen Led under cabinet lighting

[ElectriciansForums.net] Kitchen Led under cabinet lighting

[ElectriciansForums.net] Kitchen Led under cabinet lighting
 
What did the manufacturers instructions say? Or are they in the bin?
 
Hi i hope someone has the answer to this.

Ok we have just had a new kitchen fitted and i have installed under cabinet lighting 12 volt. It is Led strip and 1 side cabinet is 1.6 meters long and the other side is 2 meters long. I have 2 power supplies 1 for each side. they are 12 volt linked to the wall switch.

Now my problem is about every 2 weeks when i switch them on it trips my fuse in the main fuse board. just the ground lights fuse and nothing else. the spot lights and pendents don't do this.

The led stripe roll is 24 watts per roll and i got a 5 meter roll but used less than that. The power supply's are input 240v 50-60hz, Output 12v DC6.66A 80 watts and this has 2 12v outlets but im only using 1 each side.

I have tried different Led strip tape but did the same.

I have found a mention of inrush! am i right in thinking its like a sudden serge to power to the leds or power supply?

I know my house electrics are all fine as i have had a full electrical test after my building work was finished and signed off.

See pictures attached of whats fitted and my fuse bored. Is it possible to up-rate the ground lights fuse in the main fuse bored?
when you took the pic was it spag bowl night .no it Chinese night.
 
this fault was it
[ElectriciansForums.net] Kitchen Led under cabinet lighting
giving you a headache. pinch and pull boys.
 
Last edited:
Seriously Buzz - you're the naughty child that needs to be put in the shed when the posh friends come visiting!
Crumbs that just brought back memories!
 
I opt for a dicky transformer inrush/ bridge rectifier type leakage coupled with a B6 RCBO perhaps a little sensitive. I'd at least try a regular mcb in there and go from there.
Get a spark in to do that - disclosure over!
 
As @westward10 has already brought attention to the RCBO and the mixing of manufacturers invalidates warranties and other things, I would add that the type of RCBO Type A instead of Type AC is the problem change the RCBO for the correct type and I believe that will be the end of your problem.
 
I agree
A type c breaker should solve the problem.
We tend to fit type c on lighting breakers. Helped stoped breaker tripping when a filament lamp came to the end of its life too
 
I find it hard to believe the inrush on those strips is that high, I think as he has an A type RCBO for a.c. and pulsed d.c. whereas it would be better to have an AC type. Maybe. But yeh maybe Type C. I think if there is d.c. current knocking around the lighting tripping type A it would be better to stay with that to avoid hysteresis on AC type.
 
It is very difficult to fit a non compatible device in Memera 2000 board and I would suggest it is sorted ASAP.
 
from the pictures I'd say this one is a pretty easy fix for a local electrician, there are a few of us on the forum in the Guildford area to choose from.
 

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