Kitchen Light Circuit????

[ngoodson1969]

Hi All,

I just wondered whether the circuit below will work:
A 2 gang switch, 1 switch does the pendant, the other does the 4 down-lighters and a separate single switch for the under-cupboard lights? Thanks.

 

[Guest123]

Hi.

Seems like it would be easier for you to take the live and neutral feed direct to your switch, and run twin and earths from there to the relevant light fittings.

EDIT- I've just spied an error on your drawing. Have a look and see if you can spot it.

 

[Darkwood]

2 out of 10 for your artwork but only the first light will work as the central top wire has no neutral connected to jb1, im sure its just an oversite while drawing i hope your wiring is neater than your drawing and i assume their is no earthing to simplify the drawing.

 

[Guest123]

Darkwood, you spoiled the fun.

 

[ngoodson1969]

Ha ha, yes, just an oversight, thanks for that. Also, yes I did omit cpc's for clarity.
I was told the problem with going through a switch first was that you would then have to put all the neutrals into a conn. block and stuff that somewhere behind the switch.
Thanks for looking guys.

Nick

Hi Lenny, how would that circuit look that you described (going via the switch first)
I don't suppose it's possible you could draw it????

Nick

 

[Darkwood]

Darkwood, you spoiled the fun.

Soz but your link wasnt there when i replied otherwise i would have joined in the tease

 

[Benn]

First proper reply to a thread......

T+E from consumer unit to 3 gang switch, all neutrals in a connector block, Line or live w/e you like to call it, in the relevant 'common' connections, link between these to carry the feed. Switch wires out to each light. Easier in my book for fancy fittings and for downlights due to only being 1 twin and earth.

Could someone double check the above Im sure its correct.

 

[Spudnik]

Agree with Leonard on that one.

No need for JB's then.

 

[Lou7]

Apart from the missed neutral , that's the proper way to wire (3 plate) , I've been sparking for 35 years and I don't wire neutrals to switches,!

 

[Guest123]

I'm sorry, but would you care to enlighten all of us as to why you deem looping in and out of a switch as so poor?? Particularly when you have a multitude of recessed lights / chandeliers etc on a circuit.

I'd be very interested to hear.

 

[Mr Mark Sparks]

i often loop at switches, now too many fancy lights have no room for multiple cables .
i use 47mm deep boxes to give room for connectors and the home auto or richmond dimmers

 

[Spudnik]

I'm sorry, but would you care to enlighten all of us as to why you deem looping in and out of a switch as so poor?? Particularly when you have a multitude of recessed lights / chandeliers etc on a circuit.

I'd be very interested to hear.

Me too.

 

[Lou7]

There are no regs against it, Iwas taught no neutrals at switches unless double pole switches are used.
I know it's easier sometimes but I always try to avoid it,plus I don't like connector blocks at sw's especially when you have dimmers (heat ). If you want to extend the circuit later ,you have get feed from switch rather than lift a couple of floorboards.
I don't know what they teach at college now,I suppose it's all this european harmony.

I've come across switch boxes with 5 t+e's and 1 3c+e all crammed into a single box, I just think it's a bit of a DIY'er method. On the guys original drawing the 1st light is a pendant (no problem), the next one is a downlight ( no problem,JB fits in hole ) the last one is under cupboard light (JB fixed to under side if cbd, no problems !!

 

[Mark.W]

I personally like the shadow on the drawing

 

[steamboatwilly]

I personally like the shadow on the drawing

Is it one of those shadow puppet things? Someone pinching a crocodile's nose?