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Haha another way is to befriend the plasterer, theyre always after flex for an outside light or cable to connect a cooker, once you have a favour to call in get your hammer out, ask them to patch the hole with plasterboard and get your padsaw out, job done haha!
 
Haha another way is to befriend the plasterer, theyre always after flex for an outside light or cable to connect a cooker, once you have a favour to call in get your hammer out, ask them to patch the hole with plasterboard and get your padsaw out, job done haha!

or do it yourself, its not hard to do it, if your bad at plastering then buy sandpaper as well
 
Try spring toggle bolts to hold the box onto the lath. you can push them between the lath turn them by 90 degrees or stick a piece of 3ply to the cleaned up lath if the plaster is thick enough and screw onto that. unless youfind the supporting frame location first and fix it to that. Re-aplying the plaster reduces the flex of the lath. each method has worked for me.
 
This has worked for me in the past - there are a lot of old houses in my patch.
Mark and cut out for a metal back box using a sharp pad type saw using the back stroke to cut and try using a piece of board pressed against the wall adjacent to your cut to help support the plaster and stop it breaking away. Then, cut a batten twice as long as your hole and fix it to the wall the other side of the cavity with multiple screws from the other side, I know this means a few small holes to fill but you will then have a really secure fixing for your back box. I used this technique recently in a 200 year old house to mount a shower isolator with 10mm t+e cable onto a wall made of reeds and plaster. Worked great.
 

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