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I’ve installed an LED batten into a bathroom with an extractor fan and a PIR switch (no neutral). The lamp flickers when the power is off. The fam switches off after the overrun time and the light switches off too but continues to flicker. Can anyone help please ?
 
Thanks PC1966. That sounds good. I will try the Snubber. Could that current be coming from the 9v battery in the No-Neutral PIR sensor?
If it’s the 9v battery then that’s being drained by the flickering. If I fit the snubber will that still drain the battery?
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It sounds like leakage from some sort of electronic switch. Probably the simplest fix is to add a snubber in parallel with the LED baton L & N connections to acts as a path for any very small current. Something like this:
If it’s the 9v battery then that’s being drained by the flickering. If I fit the snubber will that still drain the battery?
Source URL: UK - LED batten light flickering - https://www.electriciansforums.net/threads/led-batten-light-flickering.186979/
 
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Yes it is mains feed and it’s a No-Nuetral PiR sensor switch. I’ve installed a few and they work fine where I replace a bathroom pull cord or an ordinary light switch. Works fine with led down lights as well. The switch has a 9v battery.
There is no mention of a 9V battery in the data sheet or manuals here:


But it does say on Amazon "NL5705A or PFCC-1 capacitor (sold separately) may be required for very low wattage situation" and a quick search shows that is a 4uF class-X capacitor:

However, if the flickering is small you might find the 0.1uF + 120R snubber does the job perfectly well and is cheaper and easier to fit at the light terminals (where you can access the switched live and neutral).
 
There is no mention of a 9V battery in the data sheet or manuals here:


But it does say on Amazon "NL5705A or PFCC-1 capacitor (sold separately) may be required for very low wattage situation" and a quick search shows that is a 4uF class-X capacitor:

However, if the flickering is small you might find the 0.1uF + 120R snubber does the job perfectly well and is cheaper and easier to fit at the light terminals (where you can access the switched live and neutral).
Ok thanks. Is that snubber or capacitor just wired to the L and N terminals in the Lamp fitting or the switch housing?
 
Ok thanks. Is that snubber or capacitor just wired to the L and N terminals in the Lamp fitting or the switch housing?
Yes. Basically the capacitor provide a path for the low level current that powers the PIR sensor to avoid it passing through the LED lamp and charging it enough to flash/flicker.

At 50Hz the snubber has an impedance of around 32K so would pass around 7mA at 230V, where as the recommended 4uF is around 0.8K so would pass around 0.3A @ 230V. I suspect the PIR sensor is only a couple of mA but try it and see.
 
Yes. Basically the capacitor provide a path for the low level current that powers the PIR sensor to avoid it passing through the LED lamp and charging it enough to flash/flicker.

At 50Hz the snubber has an impedance of around 32K so would pass around 7mA at 230V, where as the recommended 4uF is around 0.8K so would pass around 0.3A @ 230V. I suspect the PIR sensor is only a couple of mA but try it and see.
Thank you. I’ll have a go.
 

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