I am going to get it checked over just to be sure by an electrician once done but I’m pretty good at a lot of things including electrics so I’d rather have them checked over then have to pay out for an electrician to come and do all the work and wiring up etc and charge me ten times what the lights cost me lol
 
personally I would not use flex for fixed wiring, it's my choice not to, some will say it's OK to use flex, I guess I was brought up to do the job properly, by that I mean clipping the cable to the rafters, using twin and earth (in this case) cable, more importantly NOT cutting the cpc out.
 
The cable is best resting against a surface that it can transfer any heat to such as plasterboard or air itself so as long as it’s not wrapped up in itchy poo (insulation). As you’ve now gone ahead with it anyway do the best you can a post a picture, appreciated always.
It paints a thousand words wouldn’t you know!
 
personally I would not use flex for fixed wiring, it's my choice not to, some will say it's OK to use flex, I guess I was brought up to do the job properly, by that I mean clipping the cable to the rafters, using twin and earth (in this case) cable, more importantly NOT cutting the cpc out.
I am going to get it checked over just to be sure by an electrician once done but I’m pretty good at a lot of things including electrics so I’d rather have them checked over then have to pay out for an electrician to come and do all the work and wiring up etc and charge me ten times what the lights cost me lol
What price safety, cash rules OK
 
This sounds like a lash up and a half. Correct cable should be used (Twin and Earth), the cpc should not be cut out, and cable should be clipped to joists, not just hidden in or under the insulation.
 
It’s all there @123, we can’t stop people doing these jobs, we probably would have done them ourselves before we were who we were but as he started yesterday and was after hints then what can we do. We offer advice which has already improved his install - granted it won’t be as good as ours but then we’re experienced. More tea?
Don't clip the earth out of the way. Leave it intact through to the last light for when you do your EFLI test. Make sure to clip the cable neatly throughout. Ensure you meet manufacturers recommendations regards thermal insulation. Don't forget your IR test just to be on the safe side. Be sure to meet building regs regards fireproofing, sound etc. Jobs a goodun.
 
for what current the cable will be taking, i don't think insi=ulation is a problem. but you do need to leave a hole around each fitting, about 6" diameter.
 
What do Lap (=crap) say about insulation above their lights in the installation instructions? It looks like you will be using GU10s? Those fittings look like the old original JCC fittings bought out of the lock up and re-badged. They do not appear to have an intumescent seal on them which regarding fireproofing is not compliant, unless I am just not seeing the seal as it is transparent. It's your house but really, be careful regards the fire proof aspect. I agree with @Pete999, 1.5 T&E clipped (as also @123 has said) The heat generated by these fittings is quite high and insulation will exacerbate the problem. Before commissioning the circuit you need to test it to ensure it complies with BS7671 to prove it is safe to "switch on" or as most DIY do, the big bang theory. Putting flexy into the terminals in those lights is not as easy as it may seem. T&E will offer a more definite clean termination, whereas you may tend to get "spiders legs" of strands sticking out if you are not experienced especially as it is crouching in a loft with insulation and dark surroundings.
 
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led downlighting wiring help
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