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Yes I think it would. Also it's likely that the programming resistor from the old one could be transferred to this. But I don't know if any of the other control terminals, Dali etc. need to be left disconnected (or not) once the o/p current is set.

But it's not in stock!
 
500mA is less than 600mA so not going to stress the LEDS,
thats a good price
 
This one might just do:
And there is a beefier version at a bit more money.
I'm not sure if it will work out of the box without being (NFC) programmed first! The current is set with a resistor as per the original one. There's loads of technical info on the above website but I haven't looked through it all.
 


Any thoughts on above
Looks good to me. Gives 550mA with current selecting resistor of 0 ohms, ie a link, so you don't need to buy a programming resistor! Seems good to go.
Only think I didn't see was anything about isolation of the output from the mains input, but I think it's implied.
Try one!
 
If you are going for that type of form factor (they would typical be inside a linear light fitting, then why not
8.33K resistor gives 600mA same minimum voltage so no downside
 
E2A: see posts below, the following might be incorrect due to the differences between Gen 1 & 2 configuration.

I am not convinced that the LED is presently running at 605mA. The Osram LEDset guide gives the resistor value as:
Rset [Ω] = (5 V/Iout [A]) x 1000
For 605mA that would be 8.3kΩ and although I can't see the colours on that resistor clearly enough to say what the value is, it doesn't look like 8.2 kΩ. The band that Brian sees as green, I see as blue, which would make it 16kΩ leading to a lamp current of 310mA, i.e. it might be significanly underrun (which could be a factor in the LEDs all outlasting the drivers.) I would want to double-check that before choosing an alternative driver.
 
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The band that Brian sees as green, I see as blue, which would make it 16kΩ leading to a lamp current of 310mA,
I see that band as a blueish green or a greenish blue. Could be either TBH, but 15k is the standard value, although 16k is in the E24 series, of course.
It's definitely one or the other.
 
I am not convinced that the LED is presently running at 605mA. The Osram LEDset guide gives the resistor value as:
Rset [Ω] = (5 V/Iout [A]) x 1000
For 605mA that would be 8.3kΩ and although I can't see the colours on that resistor clearly enough to say what the value is, it doesn't look like 8.2 kΩ. The band that Brian sees as green, I see as blue, which would make it 16kΩ leading to a lamp current of 310mA, i.e. it might be significanly underrun (which could be a factor in the LEDs all outlasting the drivers.) I would want to double-check that before choosing an alternative driver.
Thank you Lucien for the cautionary words.

The formula you use above is for Osram "Gen 2" devices.
But the OP's part number I think indicates a Gen 1 device according to the Osram bumf?
See below - I'm not clear if this changes anything or not - your thoughts would be appreciated please.
[ElectriciansForums.net] LED Driver alternative
 
Good spot, I think you're right and I've edited the above post. Can we discover the relationship of resistor to current for Gen. 1 drivers?
 
Good spot, I think you're right and I've edited the above post. Can we discover the relationship of resistor to current for Gen. 1 drivers?
I found this (description! of link in my post #7) see below:
My attempts at unravelling this from the 274uA current, (presumably from 12V) - and I really haven't understood this - suggested someting like 7V across Rset, which would be driving the lamp a bit over 400mA.

[ElectriciansForums.net] LED Driver alternative

Post crossed with yours Lucien!
I thought I had worked out the source impedance of the 274uA and I had a potential divider of that and Rset which led to a voltage across Rset that I mention above.
Clearly something wrong with that!! Yes - it's a constant current source DUH! Prefer your version.
 
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Oops, post crossed with yours.

It seems the Gen1 interface sets the fraction of the rated output current, not the absolute current, in the relationship: Iout = Inom ((Vset-1)/9). Vset can be derived from an active voltage source in a remote control, optionally referenced to the driver's +12V aux supply, or can be created passively by a resistor driven by a constant 274μA bias current that flows out of the control terminal. Thus for a 16kΩ resistor:
Vset = 274ÎĽ * 16k = 4.4V
Iout = 700 * ((Vset-1)/9) = 263mA

That's an even lower fraction of the panel's rating and is starting to sound unlikely.

To set a Gen1 driver of 700mA rating to 605mA with a resistor, one would need:
Vset = 605/700 * 9 +1 = 8.8V
Rset = Vset/274μ = 32kΩ or 33kΩ as the nearest preferred value.

Perhaps we are not seeing the colours on the resistor correctly, but I can't resolve them to anything like 33kΩ
 
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hi,

coming back to this after a couple of years;
resistor colors are as follows Orange,blue, black,red, brown

Is this still an option
 

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resistor colors are as follows Orange,blue, black,red, brown
The resistor value appears to be 36K 5%, a little off Lucien's 33K sum above.
If it is 36K, I calculate it's programming the power supply to produce 684mA, somewhat over the target 605mA.
Maybe that's why lamps were suffering?
Is this still an option
Yes I think so.

The Tridonic driver will give 500mA so the lamps will produce a little less light output, but they ought to last longer!
 
Sadly these drivers are now discontinued, been looking for a couple of 100W versions and had to resort to Ebay.
The replacements are current set by NFC programming which you can get done but there is a charge. No sure of the available steps and you may get closer to 600mA rather than settling for 500mA
If you go to the Tridonic website its straight forward to choose a suitable driver
 

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