LED lighting layout... colour varaitions

[sythai]

Evening All....

Just planning the next stage on a job I have on the go at present. Bungalow with a lot of the internal walls being removed to open plan it all.

The area I'm getting my head round at the mo is the downlight plan.... they want the bliming things everywhere :sad_smile:

Will be open plan kitchen, seating area/ entrance hall - approx 15m x 7m. Will probably be splitting into 2 zones kitchen zone 1 and the remainder on zone 2.

In a kitchen I would always recommend natural white (4000k / Aurora Sola LED) but think this will be to stark for the seating/ entrance hall... would be good to use a warm white for these (3000k / Aurora Sola) ?

My question is would this look odd having 2 lamp variations in the same locality, even though they be switched differently and be within 2 separately defined areas? Hope someone makes some sense of this, sorry long day.... :dizzy2:

Cheers

Sy

 

[pennywise]

Yes it would drive me nuts lol . I've only ever had one customer like white LEDs, I find its like being in a dental studio to harsh, commercial fine, domestic no.

 

[sythai]

I find its like being in a dental studio

Like that one mate :rolleyes2:

Going round and leaving a couple of samples today, but will be recommending 'warm white'

 

[RyanCheetham]

I much prefer the look of cool white, but to answer your question i think 2 different colours in visible proximity would look pants. Perhaps if you fitted cool white everywhere but fitted dimmers in the areas where it needs to be less harsh?

 

[haj]

Always warm white for me in domestic I think splitting them would look pants !! I use halers pro dimmambles.

 

[sythai]

Cheers Guys.... yep dimmable warm white throughout it is, customer happy with that - simples:smile5:

I use halers pro dimmambles.

Used Halers when started with LEDs couple of years back, have also tried JCC a few times along the way, but current all round favourite now for quite a while are Aurora Solas (go through a fair few of these every month and have managed to screw my wholesaler right down to a decent price : £20/per unit non dim and £25/per unit dimmable)

 

[Rockingit]

I think it's worth remembering here that one manufacturers 'warm' and 'cool' can differ from another's. You need to compare temperatures as there's quite a difference between 3kK and 3.7kK, equally 'neutral' can be anything between 4 & 5kK.

The only place I install daylight (6400K) in domestic is bathrooms (for the ladies make-up requirements!)

 

[pennywise]

I find Halers H2 a pain in the arse, unless the dimmer is matched or they have approved it they blow, had 2 go in the same room, turned out they have a compatibility issue with lutrons Rania range, they produce a voltage spike on the load side which causes the driver to literally pop

 

[varilite]

Electricians probably had this conversation in the fifties and sixties when fluorescents became all the rage

 

[1Justin]

"Warm White" is usually a cover-up by manufacturers for 3000K colour temperature. Since Incandescents and the majority of CLS lamps are closer to 2700, then even "Warm White" may come over a little cool and blueish for some tastes.

If you want a close match to what people are used to, then hunt down 2700K which might be called "Very Warm White", probably only available as separate GU10 bulbs. I fitted some Philips Master LED the other day in 2700K and they are very nice.

Problem being you loose efficiency at 2700 with LED and they are harder to find (It's easier and cheaper to make 3000k).

 

[Rockingit]

"Warm White" is usually a cover-up by manufacturers for 3000K colour temperature. Since Incandescents and the majority of CLS lamps are closer to 2700, then even "Warm White" may come over a little cool and blueish for some tastes.

If you want a close match to what people are used to, then hunt down 2700K which might be called "Very Warm White", probably only available as separate GU10 bulbs. I fitted some Philips Master LED the other day in 2700K and they are very nice.

Problem being you loose efficiency at 2700 with LED and they are harder to find (It's easier and cheaper to make 3000k).

Also, the behaviour of tungsten is such that you get a whole rang of distinctly amber tones at lower dimming values - just take a clear 100W bulb and try it - below around 30% and not only is your light 'dim' it's also almost orange in colour.