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The prctice these days is to D4 glue 22mm T&G chipboard together and to the joists. Then follow with nails or screws. Has anyone tried lifting these boards afterwards?

How do you do it without ripping the joists?

Thanks in advance.
 
might be an easier option to cut the ceillng below. less repair costs.
Thats an awful option. 15mm plasterboard with 100mm Rock wool above. Then getting a plasterer in to fix. The T&G manufacturers recommend the glueing too. Great until you need to do something.

Im building a house and about to lay the first floor T&G. The D4 glue is strong as hell. Ive done floating floor on the ground floor and the stuff supports a gym with us dead lifting damn near 200Kg. No squeaks in the 9 months use so far. Sitting on 150mm rigid foam.
 
The prctice these days is to D4 glue 22mm T&G chipboard together and to the joists. Then follow with nails or screws. Has anyone tried lifting these boards afterwards?

How do you do it without ripping the joists?

Thanks in advance.

Been using this sytem for 30+ years, cuts a 250mm hole which I find plenty big enough to get tools in to drill joists and fish cables and speedfit pipe
 
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Same as @OnlQQker . You have to cut a separate hole between each pair of joists, if you try to cut a strip across the joists it will break when you pull it up.

Sometimes you find it has been glued only, no screws/nails, so the location of the joists is a mystery. Go downstairs, find the joists in the ceiling with a magnet, and measure them off the external wall. Transfer the measurements upstairs to find the joists.
 
I’ve used the drill kits with the plastic laid in plugs before.
About 8 plugs in one house across two bedrooms.
They just lie in loose on a rebated edge. Not fixed… so luckily most of the holes ended up inside a built in wardrobe, or under furniture… not getting walked on.
 
I’ve used the drill kits with the plastic laid in plugs before.
About 8 plugs in one house across two bedrooms.
They just lie in loose on a rebated edge. Not fixed… so luckily most of the holes ended up inside a built in wardrobe, or under furniture… not getting walked on.
The solid board cutter with the solid board plugs is good if you only need a small access hole (111 or 127mm) just got to be careful to miss any pipes, I usually put the heating on and run some hot water then scan the floor with a thermal imager before drilling
 
As mentioned above NEVER cut along the tongue as if it is glued down it will just disintegrate when you try to rip it up

The last re-wire I did with weetabix floors , I cut a rectangle hole between the joists with a multi-tool and then used some off cuts of 4x2 and screwed to the sides of the joists and then put the bit back in the hole or cut a new out of some 22mm ply board.
Took blooming ages this way but no damages to the ceilings and once the carpets went back you would never know I had been.
 
The cost of wood for that today is expensive. T&G is about ÂŁ15 a sheet.
Proper re-claimed floor boards are crazy expensive , you think they used to go in the skip now they go straight on Ebay along with any pulled out white red black cable that gets measured coiled up ad listed straight on Ebay.
I am getting well over ÂŁ1 per mtr for red black twin n earth
 

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