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Bungalow with loft conversion, DB 17th edition split load, so all circuits RCD protected.
Corridor has 3 wall lights, 2 on one switch, 2nd on its own switch. Also kitchen lights, lounge and living room on this circuit.
Customer fitted G9 (I think) LED lamps to hall fittings, and they don't fully turn off, always emitting a low glow. Checked voltage L to N and L to E and both read approx 60V. Interestingly the act of putting my fluke multimeter across the terminals to take a reading turned the LED lamps off - capacitor in the fluke?
Checked through the circuit as best as I could around the loft extension - small crawl space and lots of insulation - found several joints all on choc blocks for this circuit, by splitting them up I isolated the circuit to just the hall lights and the lounge lights, the cable then goes under the extension. The fault was still there - isolated the lounge off at the dimmer switch, fault still there.
Tried taking out the LED lamps - voltage still there.
Isolating the MCB removes the voltage.
Can't get to any more of the circuit, so any ideas where the stray voltage is coming from, or can I just fit something like a snubber and mask the problem?
 
Sounds like inducted voltages in the cables. The voltage can be quite high but there will be negligible current. Enough current to make an LED glow but dragged down by your meter. So yes the suggestion to add dome loads will cure it.

What I don't get is why we don't see more moves to 12V for lighting? Why send 230V around just to drop to a few volts in the light.

It would make more sense to generate 12V at the Consumer unit then distribute that to the lighting circuits. EVL at the switches etc.
 
Sounds like inducted voltages in the cables. The voltage can be quite high but there will be negligible current. Enough current to make an LED glow but dragged down by your meter. So yes the suggestion to add dome loads will cure it.

What I don't get is why we don't see more moves to 12V for lighting? Why send 230V around just to drop to a few volts in the light.

It would make more sense to generate 12V at the Consumer unit then distribute that to the lighting circuits. EVL at the switches etc.

You got shares in copper or something?
 
You got shares in copper or something?

Why with LEDs now in the few watts per lamp a whole house would only be tens of watts a couple of amps at most.
 
A lots lost in the in lamp voltage conversion.
Replacement LED lamps to replace the old 12V dichromic ones (typically 50W each so 4A) are 3-6W at 12V.
Its less efficient because we are sending 230V and having to drop to a few volts.
 
A lots lost in the in lamp voltage conversion.
Replacement LED lamps to replace the old 12V dichromic ones (typically 50W each so 4A) are 3-6W at 12V.
Its less efficient because we are sending 230V and having to drop to a few volts.

So approx 0.4A per fitting @ 12V.

10 lamps on a circuit (conservative estimate) 4A loading on a lighting circuit.

What size cable are you looking at to meet 3% VD?
 
So approx 0.4A per fitting @ 12V.

10 lamps on a circuit (conservative estimate) 4A loading on a lighting circuit.

What size cable are you looking at to meet 3% VD?
Yes…but the load on the 240v side of the driver would be a 20th of the 0.4A on the 12v side.

It's better to use 240v to the lamp and convert to elv at that point because of VD on the 12v side.
 

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