Location for shower isolation switch

[pc1966]

This could possible have been a poll, but really just opening up for suggestions and feedback on where folks think an isolation switch for an electric shower should be located. Some obvious choices are:

• Pull cord inside bathroom
• Wall switch inside bathroom (outside of zones, obviously)
• Wall switch outside bathroom
• Somewhere else, like in nearby cupboard, etc.

The pull cord is a traditional option, and inside it is easy to find (i.e. discoverable) when needed. In the case I have been asked to help with (friend's en-suite project) it is not clear if a false ceiling is being fitted, and if not there is no way I'm getting involved with 150 year old lath and plaster ceilings!

The wall switch near bathroom is therefore my current choice. Inside and far enough away from water is again obvious/discoverable, so I'm leaning towards that. Outside is possibly better for the switch, but then it is either one of several at door where the light switch and possible heated floor switch might end up, or around the corner (closer to shower itself, further from the door of the new bathroom area) so not so obvious to find.

The "somewhere else" option they like as it makes things look neater, and there is a cupboard in the overall room where the CU is, so putting an isolator in there is simple as cable is destined to go there anyway. This ticks the box for being operable by a normal person, not like flipping the RCBO, but the non-obvious location to anyone not familiar with the house make me a little uneasy.

Over to you folks!

TL;DR where would you chose for location?

 

[plugsandsparks]

You could install isolator in overall room as requested, then get a Traffolyte label made "Isolate from overall room" and screw the label to the tiles above the shower box,

 

[littlespark]

I hate pull cords. There I’ve said it.

 

[brianmoooore]

Wall switch immediately outside the door every time.

 

[oscar21]

I prefer a switch for ease of fitting but they don't half look ugly. I would also only fit the double height vertical switch, both for cookers and showers, dont know why people mess about with those single size switches, pain in the arse to fit, especially inside somewhere small.

I would never fit a standard pullcord with a back box, they are virtually impossible to do with 10mm however the crabtree pull cord isn't too bad but it does have it flaws. you have to do the connections before you screw it to the ceiling because the terminal screws are angled and you cant get the screwdriver in to all the connections as at least one will be facing the wall.

 

[timhoward]

I think I agree with the original logic. Better to be somewhere obvious, and prefer wall over pull cord. Prefer outside room over inside but if not convenient out of zones inside room sounds like the reasoned outcome.

 

[pc1966]

I prefer a switch for ease of fitting but they don't half look ugly. I would also only fit the double height vertical switch, both for cookers and showers, dont know why people mess about with those single size switches, pain in the arse to fit, especially inside somewhere small.

I agree, the doble-gang size really is the only sane option.

I would never fit a standard pullcord with a back box, they are virtually impossible to do with 10mm however the crabtree pull cord isn't too bad but it does have it flaws. you have to do the connections before you screw it to the ceiling because the terminal screws are angled and you cant get the screwdriver in to all the connections as at least one will be facing the wall.

The Crabtree pull-cord would be my choice as well.

Sadly here it looks like 16mm 6242B (LSZH) as the only practical route is under the floorboards where it is close to central heating pipes, and that would be needed to still meet the ~45A load with de-rating to likely ambient temperatures.

I really hate working in homes...

 

[brianmoooore]

Bung some insulation on the heating pipes. They should be insulated already.

 

[Mike Johnson]

Is it really necessary for the isolation switch to be obvious? If its for safety reasons when working on it an electrician will find it anyway, if its for emergencies the RCD/MCB/RCBO should have tripped, just some random thoughts.

 

[littlespark]

Make it clear it’s a shower isolation switch.
Number of times I’ve changed pullcords and it’s down to customer using the switch all the time, leaving the shower dials on.

 

[brianmoooore]

Make it clear it’s a shower isolation switch.
Number of times I’ve changed pullcords and it’s down to customer using the switch all the time, leaving the shower dials on.

Would help if people didn't fit pull cord isolators with neon indicators.
Switch outside the door, and it only ever gets used as an isolator (or by children turning it off while their sibling is in the shower.)

 

[pc1966]

Good point about it being an isolator switch!

 

[pc1966]

Bung some insulation on the heating pipes. They should be insulated already.

They should, but no. Also that would mean taking up loads of old floorboards, on an already carpeted room, filled with furniture, etc.

My life is too short for such a poorly planned setup so just pulling in 90C rated cable is about the least-worst option. Even that is made difficult by the under floorboard crap left over from the plumber's activities and the ash/debris put under the boards for sound dampening, etc.

Did I mention how much I hate working on houses (especially old ones)?