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S

sivoodoo

Which method would you think uses the least amont of cable, looping in at the ceiling rose or at the switch?

Regards

Si.
 
I almost always fit a 35mm box. I've easily managed to fit 8 cables (2* feed's, 3* switch lives and 3 3core's) into a single 35mm backbox no trouble, dress it in all neatly and it will push in like a dream
 
I almost always fit a 35mm box. I've easily managed to fit 8 cables (2* feed's, 3* switch lives and 3 3core's) into a single 35mm backbox no trouble, dress it in all neatly and it will push in like a dream
Way too much like hard work for me! How on earth do you contain 8 cables in a chased out wall? Must be a right old mission!
 
So ....no containment at the down-lighters for the building wire loops, ...really, ...OK , lol!!!

At a single 1 way one gang maybe, but that's not always the case is it, especially in hallways/porches etc!! The last thread on this subject someone actually posted a photo of a switch looped switch, it looked as if you would need to force the dammed switch plate back into the box. So not my imagination at all!!

What you may call a satisfactory answer, is not necessarily anyone else's! I think i've made my position just about as clear as i can, if you don't agree that's fine too. I'm not telling you how to wire anything, you've been in this game long enough to decide that for yourself.

You've lost me there E'.....maybe I'm having a blonde moment but you'll have to elaborate.
 
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A perfect example!! I Rest my case!! lol!!!

Like I said, dress it in neatly and it will fit in like a dream, take your time and it will be no trouble at all, go at it like a bull in a china shop and you will struggle dressing it back.

The switch in question was on a landing with 2 2way's for up and down, a 3core for a fan and 3 switch lines. All you have added into that switch instead of taking the feed into the rose is 3 extra cables (Feed and Fan) Still would of been 5 cables there regardless, 3 more isn't going to make to much difference. I use 1mm 3core anyway so I've got more play dressing it in. Id much rather work at switch height doing it than working above head at a pendant with aching arm's and a creaking neck!
 
And very good advice too!! But then, ....just how often do you see electricians these days spending more time chopping out for those deeper boxes?? Not very often is it!!!!

All part of the de skilling in the industry these days it seems most are too proud to chop out for boxes or do the meanial bits of installation work in our trade
 
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So ....no containment at the down-lighters for the building wire loops, ...really, ...OK , lol!!!

At a single 1 way one gang maybe, but that's not always the case is it, especially in hallways/porches etc!! The last thread on this subject someone actually posted a photo of a switch looped switch, it looked as if you would need to force the dammed switch plate back into the box. So not my imagination at all!!

What you may call a satisfactory answer, is not necessarily anyone else's! I think i've made my position just about as clear as i can, if you don't agree that's fine too. I'm not telling you how to wire anything, you've been in this game long enough to decide that for yourself.


3G switch with feed in, feed out, switch line 1 switch line 2 switch line 3 and a 3 c to another 1 g switch somewhere for a 2 way == still only one 6 way wago block for 5 neutrals.
 
And very good advice too!! But then, ....just how often do you see electricians these days spending more time chopping out for those deeper boxes?? Not very often is it!!!!


i always chase out 35mm boxes for all single boxes, gives me the scope to use feed in feed out on switches if i like and also is a better depth box for fuse spurs in kitchens where you have got 3 2.5mm in the boxes, i also use 47mm boxes for shaver points and cooker switches/outlets.
 
3G switch with feed in, feed out, switch line 1 switch line 2 switch line 3 and a 3 c to another 1 g switch somewhere for a 2 way == still only one 6 way wago block for 5 neutrals.

So you have 5 neutrals sitting behind a wall switch plate and proud of it no doubt too!!... I suppose we should forget about all the other cores filling up the back box! haha!!!


i always chase out 35mm boxes for all single boxes, gives me the scope to use feed in feed out on switches if i like and also is a better depth box for fuse spurs in kitchens where you have got 3 2.5mm in the boxes, i also use 47mm boxes for shaver points and cooker switches/outlets.

If that's right what your telling us here , you are one of the very, very few that would chop in 35 and 47mm back boxes as a normal course of installation. Though it would still not make it right in my mind, to use a switch looped system...
 
If that's right what your telling us here , you are one of the very, very few that would chop in 35 and 47mm back boxes as a normal course of installation. Though it would still not make it right in my mind, to use a switch looped system...[/QUOTE]


if you are not using 35 or 47mm boxes then you are squashing 3 x 2.5mm for a fuse spur into a 25mm box? or 6mm's into what? a 25mm box too??????
 
jase;383172. if you are not using 35 or 47mm boxes then you are squashing 3 x 2.5mm for a fuse spur into a 25mm box? or 6mm's into what? a 25mm box too??????[/QUOTE said:
Thought we were talking about ''Loop in at ceiling rose or switch'' So what are you on about here??
 
Ive read through this thread and my fifty pence is this...
When i do a new install from scratch i loop in at the ceiling roses or light fitting. if there is a couple of lights to go outside at end of the lighting circuit i am not adverse to looping those in at the switch and straight out the wall in fact i would be happy too.
I have no problem with anyone doing their whole install looping at every switch.. but i cant say i like the thought of going and make an addition (another light and switch) on a lighting circuit looped at every switch.
 
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Preferably to the switch

Easier to wire
Easier on the light fittings
Less time up the ladder (Health and safety?)
"I've changed my mind"
In most cases easier to add an additional light to that switch (all though you have feeds above and at the switch for future....who knows)?
 
As with all these type of debates we seem to have one party arguing in favour of whichever course is most logical for the job its being applied to and the other party arguing that, it should be done the way its always been done because thats the way its always been done and progress is bad, and the industry, the poor old industry doesn't like it.......
yawn.........

Me?
If its a bog standard rewire with single pendant per room I'll loop the pendant. Downlights, kitchens, bathrooms etc I nearly always feed the switch. Why? Because I prefer to work on something at chest height than something above my head. Easier on the arms. And I dont enjoy trying to get 6 cables into a JB that needs to fit through a 70mm hole. Its slower. Time is money.
 

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