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Mjward

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Moved into a new house and before I make a start on the serious renovation, thought I'd mount a TV so I have some evening entertainment.

Easy, the previous owners already had one up, just need to move along slightly for new pilot holes for the new bracket. Or so I thought.

Drilled first pilot hole, no issue.
Drilled second pilot hole and lights in room went out. (I didn't connect the two immediately as the microwave was on and this earlier triggered the RCBO).
Drilled third pilot hole and poof, bit of a spark, RCBO triggered again and told me something was not right.

The things that are alarming me are:

1) I've drilled a couple of inches horizontally from where previous mount was installed. Closer to a power socket but nowhere near above. Further away from a light switch and in no logical route of a cable run

2) the room lights are switching off when there was a power overload earlier on the sockets. Don't know why these would be on same RCBO.

This house is completely new to me less than a week ago so don't have a full understanding of the electrics but there s growing number of warning signs that something isn't right
 
If you swap the bulbs around, does the “slow” one alway be in that room, or does it move to the one you swapped?
You've inadvertently solved it in a way (plus I'm an idiot).

I wasn't doing a fair test. When I've turned them all on from cold, they were all slow to start. Previously I was flicking the "working" ones on/off from a prior on position. Suspect they are cheap LED bulbs
[ElectriciansForums.net] Made me jump!
 
You've inadvertently solved it in a way (plus I'm an idiot).

I wasn't doing a fair test. When I've turned them all on from cold, they were all slow to start. Previously I was flicking the "working" ones on/off from a prior on position. Suspect they are cheap LED bulbsView attachment 88122

Sometimes it's the simplest things!
 
When I've turned them all on from cold, they were all slow to start. Previously I was flicking the "working" ones on/off from a prior on position. Suspect they are cheap LED bulbs
That sounds more like CFL than LED (due to the the "warm" bit). Probably worth investing in a new set of decent LED lamps to fit them, though different brand LEDs can show a slight difference in switch-on times they are usually in the small fractional second region.

When looking for LED bulbs decide if you want the warm or cool light, I usually would suggest warm unless you have them for work areas, etc.
 
That sounds more like CFL than LED (due to the the "warm" bit). Probably worth investing in a new set of decent LED lamps to fit them, though different brand LEDs can show a slight difference in switch-on times they are usually in the small fractional second region.

When looking for LED bulbs decide if you want the warm or cool light, I usually would suggest warm unless you have them for work areas, etc.
It's definitely on the to do list. I'm currently just using what's in the house and focusing on the first fix. Second fix will be quality parts, mostly Philips Hue bulbs which actually brings me onto a question:

I've had great experience using these bulbs with a normal 1-way switch and dimming via the app. Was wondering how smart these bulbs are with a dimmable switch i.e. if the switch is on 10% power, is there any awareness on the bulb and thus the app so that you don't under or over dim via the app additionally?
 
It's definitely on the to do list. I'm currently just using what's in the house and focusing on the first fix. Second fix will be quality parts, mostly Philips Hue bulbs which actually brings me onto a question:

I've had great experience using these bulbs with a normal 1-way switch and dimming via the app. Was wondering how smart these bulbs are with a dimmable switch i.e. if the switch is on 10% power, is there any awareness on the bulb and thus the app so that you don't under or over dim via the app additionally?
Hue bulbs need 230v to operate, so you can’t use a dimming switch with them.
Saying that, they might operate within a range of voltage, ie 100-230…. But I wouldn’t advise it.
 
Hue bulbs need 230v to operate, so you can’t use a dimming switch with them.
Saying that, they might operate within a range of voltage, ie 100-230…. But I wouldn’t advise it.
Had a feeling it wouldn't be easy. That coupled with the issues finding GU10 cages that fit the hue bulbs I think I'll have to drop that bulb idea as would prefer hard wired dimmers than relying on an app
 
It's definitely on the to do list. I'm currently just using what's in the house and focusing on the first fix. Second fix will be quality parts, mostly Philips Hue bulbs which actually brings me onto a question:

I've had great experience using these bulbs with a normal 1-way switch and dimming via the app. Was wondering how smart these bulbs are with a dimmable switch i.e. if the switch is on 10% power, is there any awareness on the bulb and thus the app so that you don't under or over dim via the app additionally?
You could use the Phillips Hue smart button which is wireless, and can be used to dim Hue bulbs.
 

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