Your supply and the fridge sound fine, the IR extender looks like the problem so shielding/replacing that is the most likely solution.Yes it was done by an electrician who we've used for various things over the years, I don't know the ins and outs but I have a reasonable understanding as I had a nose around when he'd finished first fix. There was no power in the garage before, so a big cable comes from the main DB on a 32a mcb (just the other side of the wall in the hallway) to the new room into a small Chint consumer unit. So only about a 2 metre run. 20A Radial, 6a lighting circuit, 1 spare. 12 sockets on the radial, size of room is just a single garage size, done in 2.5mm T&E. No idea how accurate this is but I stuck my cheap multimeter into a socket and it's reading 238 volts, and I switched fridge off and on again, compressor kicked in and multimeter stayed at 238 volts throughout. Does all that seem Ok? As another test of the circuit I've also just plugged in a 3500 watt heater, It had no effect on the voltage or on any of my equipment so I'm fairly sure it's not an issue with the circuit itself, as the fridge is only rated 60 watts!
Also, how do I check the capacitor on the fridge? If I'm honest I don't really know what I'm looking for there :/
If you want confirmation of susceptibility you could try another noise source, switching another inductive load on and off for example. If you have a piezo gas igniter they are a useful source of noise spikes for testing, treat them with care though, some produce amazingly big noise spikes that crash electronics that are otherwise fine.