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Discuss Mini Fridge causing TV to black out ! in the Electrical Appliances Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

Yes it was done by an electrician who we've used for various things over the years, I don't know the ins and outs but I have a reasonable understanding as I had a nose around when he'd finished first fix. There was no power in the garage before, so a big cable comes from the main DB on a 32a mcb (just the other side of the wall in the hallway) to the new room into a small Chint consumer unit. So only about a 2 metre run. 20A Radial, 6a lighting circuit, 1 spare. 12 sockets on the radial, size of room is just a single garage size, done in 2.5mm T&E. No idea how accurate this is but I stuck my cheap multimeter into a socket and it's reading 238 volts, and I switched fridge off and on again, compressor kicked in and multimeter stayed at 238 volts throughout. Does all that seem Ok? As another test of the circuit I've also just plugged in a 3500 watt heater, It had no effect on the voltage or on any of my equipment so I'm fairly sure it's not an issue with the circuit itself, as the fridge is only rated 60 watts!
Also, how do I check the capacitor on the fridge? If I'm honest I don't really know what I'm looking for there :/
Your supply and the fridge sound fine, the IR extender looks like the problem so shielding/replacing that is the most likely solution.
If you want confirmation of susceptibility you could try another noise source, switching another inductive load on and off for example. If you have a piezo gas igniter they are a useful source of noise spikes for testing, treat them with care though, some produce amazingly big noise spikes that crash electronics that are otherwise fine.
 
Yes I'm thinking of going for this type:
Wireless IR Extender, 20-60kHz Support - from LINDY UK - https://www.lindy.co.uk/audio-video-c2/extenders-c181/wireless-ir-extender-20-60khz-support-p9123
which does not involve HDMI at all, rather it's own wireless signal to transmit the IR.

With those RF extension leads, just to confirm would that be for the fridge to plug into, or my AV equipment?
Getting the remote extender off the HDMI link sounds like a good move. If you used a mains extension with a filter you'd want it in the fridge supply but I wouldn't recommend it, the filters in extension cables are pretty small and rarely make much difference.
 
I tried a desk fan, and it caused exactly the same issue, so that puts my mind at rest that it’s nothing wrong with the fridge

I’ve removed the IR extender and ordered the better one (or at least I hope it’s better!)

Thanks for all your help - I think , fingers crossed, it’s solved
 
When your refrigerator compressor turns on there is a huge inrush of current for a second or so while the motor engages. Afterwards it settles to a much lower value, but during the surge the voltage on the line can droop. Do you have other things on that circuit? I am surprised that a brief droop is enough to power off a regulated DC power supply. bakingreview.com
 
I am surprised that a brief droop is enough to power off a regulated DC power supply. bakingreview.com
If extender uses an RF path to forward IR commands ,or simple signals .. It's more likely the "Signal" is scrambled by interference.
.. any extreme volt drop mentioned (was a symptom indicating possible "Design" calc. issues )
 
When your refrigerator compressor turns on there is a huge inrush of current for a second or so while the motor engages. Afterwards it settles to a much lower value, but during the surge the voltage on the line can droop. Do you have other things on that circuit? I am surprised that a brief droop is enough to power off a regulated DC power supply. bakingreview.com
Yes I have the same issue everytime my mini fridge starts my screen that is connected to my study vĂ­deo receiver goes out for a split second. What part do I need to replace in the mini fridge? I don't want to spend 100 to get a new one.
 

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