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Discuss mini trunking in the Australia area at ElectriciansForums.net

G

Gerry24

Ok, here goes for my first really basic question. I've planning a couple of jobs for my Part P assessemnt with Elecsa. And one of the jobs will involve running some T&E through plastic mini-trunking. I haven't installed mini-trunking before and I have been looking into the options and as far as I can see there are three types. Rigid lengths with a self-adhesive backing. Rigid lengths with holes in the back for screw (or nail?) fixing. Rolls of flat flexible trunking with sides that snap up into place once fixed. So, you know what's coming next. What would you guys recommend? Any views on the pros and cons of each type?

Thanks,

Gerry
 
Hi Mate

I always use self adhesive mini-trunking, cut it to length and then stick it to the wall.

After the entire trunking system is fit not lidded up of course I then drill, plug and screw it at regular intervals of about 400mm centres which will support the weight of the cables more adequately.

Hope this helps:)
 
As NRB says, always mechanically fix mini trunking with plugs and screws, don't rely on the adhesive, especially if you have power circits installed. I have seen soooo many jobs where somebody has relied on the adhesive and the trunking has fell off the wall.
 
Practice doing mitre joints too just in case the ready made ones aren't available or you've got the wrong ones for the brand of trunking. Plus mitre joints look better, though the wall has to be pretty square for the mitre's to line up nicely. If you do have gapes even when using the ready made corners etc, you can use this liquid plastic stuff called stelmax which bonds to PVC and is brilliant white and it doesn't discolor like mastic or caulk.
 
Setting myself up for a slating here, but some of the better quality trunking does not ALWAYS need additional fixings. It really depends on the quality of the adhesive and the surface you ar sticking it to.

I have had adhesive trunking on painted wood that took the wood with it before it would let go !

For most applications, though, a few (or many) screws are required to make the containment suitable for long term use.

I would be interested to know the cost of that permafix stuff....caulk is 99p a tube ! (not that I need it :D)
 
It's quite expensive ÂŁ5.50 a tube, only worth buying if you've got alot of trunking to do, though it does keep well with a screw in the end. Found out about the stuff because we had the conservatory done and the Anglian guys sealed the PVC joints with it made it look seamless and the stuffs still look's great a year in you just have to wipe the dust off occasionally but still comes up brilliant white.

http://www.sealfix.com/index.php?option=categories&category_id=131826
 

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