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telectrix

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had the misfortune to help my lad on a CU change. yesterday. he'd got a dual RCD MK 10 useable way CU. design problems as follows.

1. rear knock-outs (4) all 32mm, no big hole so cables dressed iton different holes,
2. 32mm knockout in bottom for tails directly under main switch so no clearence for tails, when there's a huge space to the left of the switch.
3. top entry knockouts all 20mm so a circuit per hole.


minor probs compared with the rent a roof solar monkeys.

1. RCD and MCB from invereter in 2.5mm T/E, box secured on wall with 2 x 1" screws into plaster, no plugs.
2. Henly block fixed with 1 loose screw.
3. all terminals loose, requiring 1/2/ to 3/4 turn to secure.
4 every terminal with exposed copper showing.
 
Use a cone head cutter on the MK holes and you can expand the 20 to a 25 ?
[ElectriciansForums.net] MK CU
 
had the misfortune to help my lad on a CU change. yesterday. he'd got a dual RCD MK 10 useable way CU. design problems as follows.

1. rear knock-outs (4) all 32mm, no big hole so cables dressed iton different holes,
2. 32mm knockout in bottom for tails directly under main switch so no clearence for tails, when there's a huge space to the left of the switch.
3. top entry knockouts all 20mm so a circuit per hole.
BG suffer from this design issue too, though it's on the right. I have no idea what the idea was - maybe they forgot to put a hole in somewhere in the design process...

Possible to add a hole with a cutter of course, but still daft.
 
I like the Hager boards as you can buy them without knockouts. I wish most things came blank so you can cut the holes in any position size you need. Same with some outdoor sockets, why on earth does a 16A outlet need a pre cut 40mm threaded hole in the top, what am I supposed to do with that??!?
 

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