MR16 12v to GU10 240v conversion

[Tom Probst]

Hi,

I've 26 MR16 12v downlights in my property. At the moment they're running 50w halogens, LED's would obviously be the more efficient option.

I think I've got a pretty solid plan for converting but I'm hoping someone will be able to point out any glaring omissions :stooge_curly:

Currently for each downlight :: junction box > transformer > spot chassis > lampholder (see image below)

Rather than trying to fit 12v LED's which would require changing the transformer (they're not LED drivers), I was thinking of altering it to a 240v setup.

Proposed wiring would go: Junction box > Spot chassis > Lampholder

This would require drilling the rivets on the spot chassis and installing a new lampholder - indeed an earthed one: Toolstation > Lighting > Interior Lights > Lampholder GU10 240V

I'd use standard 1mm lighting cable between the junction box and above new lampholder.

I'm not too fussed about this, it's a pain but not a mammoth job.

The heat these currently generate in the ceiling space is utterly ridiculous, LED will greatly reduce that - and to be honest taking the transformer out was partly to do with managing this.

So a couple of questions:

• Any obvious flaws in the above plan?
• 240v best or should I stick with a 12v transformer on each spot?
• Are there any other ways to go to LED?

Incidentally these are the downlights I've got...I guess the ratings on the sticker are for their current setup, but with an earth conversion should be suitable?

Thanks in advance for any help, much appreciated.

 

[SJD]

I often convert 12V downlights to 240V GU10's, the best way to go in my opinion, avoid having a transformer, one less thing to fail. Not sure why you need to drill out the rivets?

 

[Tom Probst]

Thanks.

I'm not planning on replacing the downlighter chassis, instead just replace the lampholder and connection block mounted on it to Toolstation > Lighting > Interior Lights > Lampholder GU10 240V.

At the moment it current lampholder and block is riveted on (as pic below).

Do you retro-fit like this or completely replace?

 

[telectrix]

best idea is use 240V GU10 LEDs. if the lamp itself clips int the can, then you can have the GU10 lamp holder floating inside. as the lamp holder itself is classII, there's probably no need to earth the can.

 

[telectrix]

just seen your 2nd pic. leave the bracket on the can. just wire the new lamp holder to the existing terminal block.

 

[Tom Probst]

Super thanks. Yes the lamp does clip into the can - clips in and the the assembly twists into the can....I assume you mean like the below?"

 

[SJD]

As Tel says, I use the existing connector block, assuming it is in good condition and safe for continued use (once in a while I come across a melted or charred one).

 

[bigdavs83]

I always prefer the mains voltage led down lighters however to save a lot of work you can now get led lamps that work off the existing 12v transformers. We fitted 85 in a building 2 years ago and haven't had any issues at all. I think it was Phillips ones we got from edmundsons.

 

[shanky887614]

I always prefer the mains voltage led down lighters however to save a lot of work you can now get led lamps that work off the existing 12v transformers. We fitted 85 in a building 2 years ago and haven't had any issues at all. I think it was Phillips ones we got from edmundsons.

yeah we fitted some 12v mr16 led lamps the other week and they seem good

 

[edrobbo8]

I would agree that you can just do away with the 12v lampholder and replace with gu10, and then wire 240v into the choc blocks.

I've also used the 12v Philips MR16 replacements, the only problem being that the transformer is still there, and has a limited life compared to the LEDs, so at some point in the future they are likely to fail before the lamp.

 

[Simon-0116]

Nice to see jb s used instead of the dreaded strip connectors wrapped in tape