Multimeter

[Dilwyn]

I’m thinking. of buying a. Multimeter say middle of the road not to cheap always messing about with different things or maybe you guys would have one to sell or would you not recommend that what’s your views cheers

 

[Taylortwocities]

The cost of meters range from £6 to £2000.
What would you expect the multimeter to be able to do? What do you want to measure? And for what purpose.

There's a difference between being able to simply test voltage on and off through to fully being able to test that an installation complies with BS7671 with the required accuracy so that the test results can be noted on an installation certificate.

 

[telectrix]

if you want something versatile and cheap, with wveform display, i suggest this.think i paid around £50 for mine.

 

[marcuswareham]

Completely depends what you want it for, most basic multimeters do the same things
Then the next level up would be a MFT to do more in-depth testing

I always like fluke as a brand, but have had a good uni-t one before and they are very well priced. I always pay attention to things like how long the probs are that come with it and how long the screen backlight stays on, and if it makes to many annoying beeps. Very annoying when you are in a dim place with limited access and the stupid backlight keeps turning off

 

[Dilwyn]

Completely depends what you want it for, most basic multimeters do the same things
Then the next level up would be a MFT to do more in-depth testing

I always like fluke as a brand, but have had a good uni-t one before and they are very well priced. I always pay attention to things like how long the probs are that come with it and how long the screen backlight stays on, and if it makes to many annoying beeps. Very annoying when you are in a dim place with limited access and the stupid backlight keeps turning off

Makes sense I would not want to be doing on depth testing I’m not that good what would be next step up from basic
[automerge]1586705373[/automerge]
Makes sense don’t want in depth. Testing looked on eBay some of them are quite expensive especially fluke. Depending on model or number any members got any for sale just a thought

 

[marcuswareham]

Makes sense I would not want to be doing on depth testing I’m not that good what would be next step up from basic
[automerge]1586705373[/automerge]
Makes sense don’t want in depth. Testing looked on eBay some of them are quite expensive especially fluke. Depending on model or number any members got any for sale just a thought

Next step up from a basic meter might be one which also includes a clamp meter for measuring AC current

But almost all meters out there will do AC & DC voltage, Continuity, current etc something like this would probably do:

View: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ranging-Multi-Purpose-Handheld-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B01M0UXSXI/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=uni-t%2Bmultimeter&link_code=qs&qid=1586705460&sr=8-5&th=1
.

 

[Mike Johnson]

Can't fault my Testo 760 nigh on impossible to make a mistake with it, nearly completely automatic: digital multimeter - https://www.testo.com/en-UK/testo-760-1/p/0590-7601

 

[R-fur]

If your thinking of going anywhere near mains electricity you need something that's G38 approved, cheap multimeters may have a 250V scale but should not be used on mains wiring. Usually all you need to do is measure voltage and check continuity for this I would recommend something like a fluke T150. Simple to use and safe for mains work.

 

[Mike Johnson]

My Fluke T150 is left in the case and the Testo 760 comes out instead, easier to use and easier to read.

 

[pc1966]

Don't buy cheap crap that is not at least CAT-III 300V rated or above. Otherwise you have a real danger when testing high energy circuits (e.g. mains supply).

You can get that sort of rating for significantly under £100 (just now there is a good deal to be had on the Testo 760-1 on test-meter.co.uk)

If looking at a clamp-on ammeter I would also checkand pay a little extra for one that goes down to mA so you can use it to check for leakage current for RCD tripping (i.e. clamp both L & N so you measure the residue, just like a RCD).