Multiple kitchen appliance failures

[brianmoooore]

My first thought was that the 13A fuse in the plug had blown. Many of these ovens consume close to 13A, and, with a bit of extra heat generated by the contact resistance between plug and socket, and fuse and fuse holder, eventually pop the fuse.
But, You claim there's no power at the socket. Any sign of heat damage around the front of the socket?
If, as you say, it is isolated by the same switch as the hob, and the hob works, it's possible there's a fused spur between the two, but rather pointless if it feeds a 13A single socket.

 

[Cpflatman]

My first thought was that the 13A fuse in the plug had blown. Many of these ovens consume close to 13A, and, with a bit of extra heat generated by the contact resistance between plug and socket, and fuse and fuse holder, eventually pop the fuse.
But, You claim there's no power at the socket. Any sign of heat damage around the front of the socket?
If, as you say, it is isolated by the same switch as the hob, and the hob works, it's possible there's a fused spur between the two, but rather pointless if it feeds a 13A single socket.

Fuse in the plug seems fine as the oven switched on plugged into another socket.
No sign of heat damage externally no, but I will isolate and take a look inside tomorrow.

 

[Cpflatman]

So today I inspected the accessible parts of the circuit.

First the cooker switch - no signs of damage. However I no longer think the cooker switch isolates the faulty oven socket, only the 32A hob.
I think this changed recently when I had the cooker switch moved out of the hot zone.

Second, the wall box where the previous cooker switch was located. No signs of damage. It has a larger T+E cable now joined by connectors and blank plated over.

Thirdly, at the rear of the oven, I see a larger T+E and a separate smaller T+E cable coming from the wall. The large cable goes to the new cooker switch (which goes onward to the 32A hob) and the small cable to the socket which supplies the oven and appears to have lost power.

I am assuming that between the old cooker switch wall box and where the larger cable emerges from the wall behind the cooker there is a spur to the socket supply enabling the old cooker switch to isolate both the hob and the oven socket. The new cooker switch no longer isolates the oven socket as it interrupts the large cable only after it re emerges from the wall.

Assuming all of this is possible and likely, does this shed any light on why the oven socket would have stopped working mid-cook?

 

[telectrix]

might just be a faulty socket (switch maybe) or a loose connection.

 

[brianmoooore]

If I read the op's last post correctly, the hob has a brand new isolator and cable, direct from the CU, and the oven has been connected, via a s/socket to an extension of the original cooker wiring.
What does the labeling of the CU say, and has any of the labels been changed? A pic. of the CU might help.
Is the s/socket that the oven plugs into in a position that can easily be reached with the oven in place?

 

[Lucien Nunes]

Failure of a socket, switch or connection powering a heating or cooking appliance is likely to happen during cooking once the load has been on for long enough for it to get hot. It's normally an avalanche effect, a bad connection or contact gets hot, its spring or clamping force weakens or the plastic parts give a little, further loosening the contact, increasing the resistance et, then a little bit of arcing creates an airgap and it never makes contact again.