my house rewire kitchen circuits help

[Guest112]

Hi guys started a thread recently about my house rewire which im starting soon but i still have some issues,

as ive said in the past i very rarely do domestic work so thats the reason im asking but here goes...

im just after a bit of info and reassurance on kitchen circuits im getting an electric cooker and hob and will be putting both on the same circuit obviously calculated but the reason being the one isolator and saves having the oven on the kitchen ring.

my freezer is going in the utility room and im happy for that to be on the downstairs RFC not the kitchen one but the kitchen RFC will have the hood, fridge and washing machine and the general sockets above the worktops on it which i think is fine.

Also i know its a recommendation to have spurs above the washing machine and fridge for easy isolation rather than having to pull the equipment out to unplug it but not very good looking to have spurs in your kitchen IMO

Just looking for reassurance or feedback or alternatives and will be greatly appreciated

 

[telectrix]

if you don't want FCUs for white goods, consider a grid switch arrangement with, say 4 x 20A D/P switches. alternatively, you could fix the sockets in adjacent cupboards ( accessible for isolation ). some hate this method, some don't. it's your house, and , as long as it complies with the bible, do it how you want.

 

[Guest112]

ye was thinking about the grid switch for the wash machine and the fridge the only gripe being the fridge will be on the other side of the kitchen but not the end of the world to throw a 2.5 over how would i wire this to the ring make the grid switch part of the ring and have radials going out? i know its acceptable to have 2.5 radials off a ring going to max one double outlet like

 

[telectrix]

yeah, you make the grid assembly part of the rfc, then take a 2.5mm to each appliance. if the fridge is over the other side, then i would just fit a single s/ofor that and use the grid switches only for appliances close to it.

 

[jase]

there is nothing to say that you cant have sockets under the worktop and behind the appliance as long as they are accesible when the appliance is pulled out, also socket outlets supplying washing machines, diswashers etc should be positioned so that water dripping from the plumbing is unlikely to affect the socket (building regs)
and they should preferably be mounted to the fabric of the building.
the cooker switched should be positioned so that is not necessary to reach or lean over gas or eletric hobs for their operation

 

[Golden_Boy]

Consider a dedicated radial for the freezer!

 

[Rauer]

I thought you couldn't put sockets behind appliances without being able to switch off the socket from elswhere , I understood it as- the appliance must be able to be isolated without having to touch it(in case the body became live under a fault).

 

[Guest112]

ive considered it but the board im buying is a dual split rcd so i dont see the benefit of having it on its own circuit but then i suppose it is recommended to not put a constant load on one side of a ring what power consumption is the average freezer hmmmm

 

[jase]

I thought you couldn't put sockets behind appliances without being able to switch off the socket from elswhere , I understood it as- the appliance must be able to be isolated without having to touch it(in case the body became live under a fault).

isnt that why all appliances must be earthed? if that were the case then we would have fuse spurs everywhere for everything, what about that nice seperates hi fi system in you living room which sits on top of the sideboard plugged into a socket behind it, are you saying that it should have a fuse spur above the sideboard?,
personally, i do use spurs or dp switches above worktop, but nothing in wiring regs or building regs says you have to, to my knowlegde.

 

[Rauer]

isnt that why all appliances must be earthed? if that were the case then we would have fuse spurs everywhere for everything, what about that nice seperates hi fi system in you living room which sits on top of the sideboard plugged into a socket behind it, are you saying that it should have a fuse spur above the sideboard?,
personally, i do use spurs or dp switches above worktop, but nothing in wiring regs or building regs says you have to, to my knowlegde.

I know where your coming from mate , I belive that you have to disconnect it under fault conditions, as usual it's this "accessible" term!

 

[Rauer]

Just looked on voltimum site and it says that the sockets need to be accessible with the appliance pulled out with the exception of integrated appliances, they need a means of isolation without removal of the appliance.

 

[telectrix]

all appliances have means of isolation under fault conditions. pretty little MCBs./ RCDs.

 

[Rauer]

all appliances have means of isolation under fault conditions. pretty little MCBs./ RCDs.

Oh we all know that but if that's the case then what's the need in local isolation

 

[GLENNSPARK]

Hi guys started a thread recently about my house rewire which im starting soon but i still have some issues,

as ive said in the past i very rarely do domestic work so thats the reason im asking but here goes...

im just after a bit of info and reassurance on kitchen circuits im getting an electric cooker and hob and will be putting both on the same circuit obviously calculated but the reason being the one isolator and saves having the oven on the kitchen ring.

my freezer is going in the utility room and im happy for that to be on the downstairs RFC not the kitchen one but the kitchen RFC will have the hood, fridge and washing machine and the general sockets above the worktops on it which i think is fine.

Also i know its a recommendation to have spurs above the washing machine and fridge for easy isolation rather than having to pull the equipment out to unplug it but not very good looking to have spurs in your kitchen IMO

Just looking for reassurance or feedback or alternatives and will be greatly appreciated

think on peter about putting that freezer on the downstairs ring final mate.......better on its own radial and if you can surface run the cable from the freezer to the c/u...or run it in an earthed metallic conduit......wont need to run that circuit through the RCD....with obvious benefits.....

 

[DNS1]

Just looked on voltimum site and it says that the sockets need to be accessible with the appliance pulled out with the exception of integrated appliances, they need a means of isolation without removal of the appliance.

Electricians Guide to Building Regs says the same, 5.2.2, note 7.