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Hi guys started a thread recently about my house rewire which im starting soon but i still have some issues,

as ive said in the past i very rarely do domestic work so thats the reason im asking but here goes...

im just after a bit of info and reassurance on kitchen circuits im getting an electric cooker and hob and will be putting both on the same circuit obviously calculated but the reason being the one isolator and saves having the oven on the kitchen ring.

my freezer is going in the utility room and im happy for that to be on the downstairs RFC not the kitchen one but the kitchen RFC will have the hood, fridge and washing machine and the general sockets above the worktops on it which i think is fine.

Also i know its a recommendation to have spurs above the washing machine and fridge for easy isolation rather than having to pull the equipment out to unplug it but not very good looking to have spurs in your kitchen IMO

Just looking for reassurance or feedback or alternatives and will be greatly appreciated
[ElectriciansForums.net] my house rewire kitchen circuits help
 
cheers guys going to do the grid dp switches idea and label the socket outlets for their intended purpose like

and the fridge on its own radial id have to buy a different db to have the non rcd circuit can anyone recommend a good db at a good price atm i was looking at the 13 way split rcd with 10 mcbs from screwfix for ÂŁ100 quid like????
 
If you had a 5+5+3, you could put in a radial for the freezer on an RCBO on the unprotected side of the CU.

The whole idea is to stop the freezer loosing power if there is a fault elsewhere in the house.

Or has someone already suggested that?

:dizzy2:
 
Guess it depends whether the sparks is doing the work for themselves, friends, family, someone who has requested/been sold a non-RCD radial, or a client who doesn't care/know but just wants it done for a good price.

When I do my girlfriends kitchen in a few weeks I'll sure as hell be putting the freezer on a separate radial. I'm not having her blame me if the RCD trips and ruins all the food!

On the subject of non-RCD socket circuits, I'm running all the electrics through a store cupboard to the new kitchen. They're not going to be below the surface, but running through surface mounted trunking. Do I have to protect the non-RCD'd cable with an earthed conduit in this case (ie.clearly visible cable)
 
so presuming you put freezer on seperate RCBO? unless you run it surface or in earthed metallic conduit etc etc, and freezer does trip out, you're not going to know until you open the door and woosh, out comes all the melted ice!!! where as if it is on with ring then the likelyhood is that something ie loss of power alerts you to the trip has gone, bit like the old smokes on lighting circuit argument
 
hi guys cheers dor all your help im going to do the grid switch method and cant for the life of me find where to buy them.

ive found the grid 20a dp switches are they the ones? im assuming 20A is fine on the ring because the way the load is disipated arounf the ring like???
 
cool, sorry tel is the yoke the metal grid to hold the switches?

yes im looking for one now that says washing machine and fridge like.

Is this method ok then mate the two switches would be linked out on the supply side to be part of the ring and then two 2.5 t+e one going to each single socket, i know its alright to have an unfused spur off a ring gioing to max one outlet each like which is what im doing like and each point will only be able to pull max 13A befor the fuse in the plug top goes like i cant see anything wrong with this method any problems you reckon?
 

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