Neutral to a switch for future use?

[ppelec100]

So I've seen some posts in the past about smart switches needing a neutral at the switch. I have a rewire coming up and was planning to use 3 core and earth as the switch line for some switches (2 gang switch will need just 1 neutral from a 3 core earth and the other SL can be T+E) as the switch will be eating a neutral. I'm only doing this for a outside the box, future proof idea. Going to be using hager accessories and they have a neutral loop terminal.
Is it a bit of an overkill? I have looked for some smart switches and a lot of them don't even require a neutral.

 

[ipf]

Hi you kind of lost me here, maybe I’m not reading it properly. What did u mean with multi gang switches it wouldn’t do to wire to switch wires ina three core? Thanks in advance

I misread regarding the 3c and twin.....no problem.

As regards neutrals at switches, in general......whichever way suits.
It's very handy at switches but I have found situations, in the past, when it has been handy having a live at the light point....for pick up.

 

[HappyHippyDad]

I misread regarding the 3c and twin.....no problem.

As regards neutrals at switches, in general......whichever way suits.
It's very handy at switches but I have found situations, in the past, when it has been handy having a live at the light point....for pick up.

You would still have a PL at each light fitting as you would be taking a 3core+E from the switch to the light fitting if you are looping in and out through the switch.
[automerge]1596550708[/automerge]
This is an interesting thread.
Do you guys actually do this on a rewire?
Would the main reason be so that the light switch could be usable by smart technology?
I think I may now at least discuss it with the client as an option.

 

[Midwest]

If everyone started making and installing stuff like Philips Hue, one wouldn't need wired switches. Anyhows, in a few years electricery will be all done on WIFI or Bluetooth or something else, and there won't be need for electricians.

 

[littlespark]

and there won't be need for electricians.

There’s no need for electricians now. Any Tom Dick and Harry can buy a consumer unit at an orange shed.

 

[ChrisElectrical88]

All rewire a I do now get a 3 core down to the switches with the grey sleeved and wagoed.

 

[nicebutdim]

There’s no need for electricians now. Any Tom Dick and Harry can buy a consumer unit at an orange shed.

Without electricians, who would fix DIY disasters?

 

[ipf]

You would still have a PL at each light fitting as you would be taking a 3core+E from the switch to the light fitting if you are looping in and out through the switch.
[automerge]1596550708[/automerge]

Whichever way it's wired a 3core does the job. It's just a matter of pros and cons for each method. A deeper box, these days, sums it up.
Not done house bashing since Volex went out of fashion, anyway.

 

[ppelec100]

bear in mind that eche section of 1.0mm 3 core whether switch wires or strappers, only carries the load of 1 fitting ( or multipe fittings e.g. downlights), not the load of the whole circuit.

Yeah this is exactly what I was thinking, it’s only taking the load for the lights it will be switching. Thanks for confirming
[automerge]1596629172[/automerge]

I think running neutrals to light switches is a good idea in the larger rooms in a house. For the utility room or the cupboard under the stairs, not required.
Also is the end of the 16mm deep box here? Again for larger rooms should we only fit 25mm or deeper to allow for future flat plates/dimmers/smart switches?

I’m definitely only fitting 35mm back boxes minimum on this rewire, nothing less.
[automerge]1596629256[/automerge]

I misread regarding the 3c and twin.....no problem.

As regards neutrals at switches, in general......whichever way suits.
It's very handy at switches but I have found situations, in the past, when it has been handy having a live at the light point....for pick up.

It will be the same old 3 plate wiring system just with the extra core on the switch cable for neutral. Would be a nightmare to run a cable for a live.
[automerge]1596629413[/automerge]

You would still have a PL at each light fitting as you would be taking a 3core+E from the switch to the light fitting if you are looping in and out through the switch.
[automerge]1596550708[/automerge]
This is an interesting thread.
Do you guys actually do this on a rewire?
Would the main reason be so that the light switch could be usable by smart technology?
I think I may now at least discuss it with the client as an option.

This will be my first rewire so my first time doing it. I’m not even discussing it with my client, the labour is the same. Cost of cable is near enough the same if u go from 1.5mmTE to 1mm3C.
[automerge]1596629561[/automerge]

in a few years electricery will be all done on WIFI or Bluetooth or something else, and there won't be need for electricians.

Until we all team up and buy jamming devices just to get some work back

 

[HappyHippyDad]

Yeah this is exactly what I was thinking, it’s only taking the load for the lights it will be switching. Thanks for confirming
[automerge]1596629172[/automerge]

I’m definitely only fitting 35mm back boxes minimum on this rewire, nothing less.
[automerge]1596629256[/automerge]

It will be the same old 3 plate wiring system just with the extra core on the switch cable for neutral. Would be a nightmare to run a cable for a live.
[automerge]1596629413[/automerge]

This will be my first rewire so my first time doing it. I’m not even discussing it with my client, the labour is the same. Cost of cable is near enough the same if u go from 1.5mmTE to 1mm3C.
[automerge]1596629561[/automerge]

Until we all team up and buy jamming devices just to get some work back

Good luck with your first rewire.

 

[LastManOnline]

Yeah this is exactly what I was thinking, it’s only taking the load for the lights it will be switching. Thanks for confirming
[automerge]1596629172[/automerge]

I’m definitely only fitting 35mm back boxes minimum on this rewire, nothing less.
[automerge]1596629256[/automerge]

It will be the same old 3 plate wiring system just with the extra core on the switch cable for neutral. Would be a nightmare to run a cable for a live.
[automerge]1596629413[/automerge]

This will be my first rewire so my first time doing it. I’m not even discussing it with my client, the labour is the same. Cost of cable is near enough the same if u go from 1.5mmTE to 1mm3C.
[automerge]1596629561[/automerge]

Until we all team up and buy jamming devices just to get some work back

I was on an install yesterday we did in 2007.It had no ceiling. all the Apex timbers were visible as a feature so the light fittings were quite high up.I opened up one dimmer switch. First thing I see is one of the old flat 4 gang wagos (they are back again) with 3 blue wires in it. The neutrals were at the switch. We ran a single T&E to each light point. It meant most of the wiring could be done at the switch (and faultfinding). It's a sweet little system. Deep boxes highly recommended.
While it was, nt our Intention the neutral allows it to be "smart home compliant"
On a, side note. Nice to see the Click flat plate (brushed chrome) dimmers working good as day they went in.