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N

nlbhoy

I'm looking for some help/guidance with the prices I've put together for a new build development
of 30 houses, I've not yet submitted my bid as I'm looking for some constructive feedback from
anyone who has experience pricing this type of work.

Job is based in Scotland.

I've not had much experience pricing this type of work.

Houses are typical 3 and 4 bed semi's, nothing fancy.

3 bed has around:

23 sockets
8 tv/bt points
3 fans
11 switches
11 pendants
5 smokies/heat
cooker
heating/combi boiler
Main board + testing
gas bonding
mains door bell

I've priced it up per point @
ÂŁ40 per socket/bt/tv
ÂŁ100 per fan
ÂŁ25 per switch
ÂŁ25 per pendant
ÂŁ80 per smoke detector
ÂŁ125 cooker
ÂŁ150 heating
ÂŁ300 main board + testing

These prices per point are cheaper than I would usually charge doing extensions/ conversions etc

total price came to about ÂŁ3500 for the 3 bed semi. I estimated around ÂŁ1500 for materials and ÂŁ800 labour. After the 5% retention and 2.5% main contractor discount there would be approx ÂŁ800-900 profit, not including overhead which is minimal.

Is this to cheap? I would like to get the job as it's around 18months of work, but on the flip side
I would also like to make some money from this.
 
I've just been out on site to visit a spark (regarding a different job) But he was on a new build estate, around 30-40 houses, There was 4 fully qualified sparks, and the rest were just agency supplied mates, Some with no experience at all. The electrical company won the contract due to them being thousands cheaper than any other, But the sparks on site are tearing their hair out having to try and work with all the agency lads as well as actually get things done to a decent standard. Recipe for disaster if you ask me.

Unfortunately this happens a lot and IMO is more rife with commercial work than domestic. Sainsbury's new build near me had 4 sparks and 15 mates/improvers/agency staff. With domestic its the domestic installer generation that seems to be the most hassle to compete against but if you're in with a half decent builder they wouldn't even entertain the idea of such on site as they want to see qualifications/JIB cards.
 
I made myself a spreadsheet that I can put the cost of materials into, and the price per man hour, and what is asked for by the customer/drawings. It will work out a very rough cost which it multiplies by 25% as a safety margin. It works enough for me, but only for new builds and rewires where the building is going back to brick and ceilings dropped.

That said, it can't factor in non-standard building methods, or customer quirks. I use it for estimating mainly. Fairly easy to set up on excel or similar.
 
dosnt it also depend on what area... ie north of england tends to pay lower prices etc


Think just that a Mate from Lincolnshire (north side) way did a job in some village down Kings Lynn way for about ÂŁ6000 whole rewiring (i think I've had this story in my head too long the values and locations have change to protect the innocent) but someone from Cambridge are put in a offer of ÂŁ11'000.

North Lincolnshire is Nearly all dead apart from the Farms, where Cambridge and Norwich way you are getting people buying 2nd Homes now so the money is there. But the prices of one area can be a lot cheaper than the others. <Wow i express that well :( sorry >
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I always fit fire rated as standard anyway but assuming a 3 bed house over two floors are they mandatory? I know you're compromising the fire rating of the ceiling but is upstairs a separate fire compartment?

I know things get stricter with integral garages/3 floors but to be honest I'm not 100% on these points.
 
I always fit fire rated as standard anyway but assuming a 3 bed house over two floors are they mandatory? I know you're compromising the fire rating of the ceiling but is upstairs a separate fire compartment?

I know things get stricter with integral garages/3 floors but to be honest I'm not 100% on these points.

It is only separate buildings or residences that tend to have fire compartments for which the resistance must be maintained and so for which fire rated down lights are required.
A separate flat above down lights would require them and down lights in an integral garage with a room above would require them.

A fire resistant surface such as a normal plasterboard ceiling should not be reduced in integrity, but the installation of non fire rated down lights does not cause such a reduction.
However if you can restrict the spread of fire in any way it would generally be a good idea, even though a fire will spread up the stairs more easily than through a ceiling if there are a few more minutes or seconds of delay it may help.
 

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