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Hi Neil,

Couple of questions..

Do your switches cater for 2 way lighting circuits?
Does it need a hub to connect to the net?
I presume control is via an App?

Hi Andy, my post explains it all in more detail but as you have asked...

My switch caters for 1-way and 2-way lighting circuits and also 1-gang and 2-gang switch types.

The current version does require a hub to connect to the net but not its own as it can pass through other hubs. I am currently investigating direct wifi connectivity.

Primary control is via the switch itself with remote control via an app.
 
Ok, just looked at the website... and putting my devils advocate head on...

What differentiates your solution from the myriad of others that are out there already?

It's already been asked, but can it handle two-way switching?

Can it be trimmed down to fit 16mm back boxes? You've got quite a lot of bulk in that central section... could you change the board layout internally to make it thinner? It's not uncommon for light switches to be mounted to 16mm boxes.
Have you a link for the website SC?
 
Hi Andy, my post explains it all in more detail but as you have asked...

My switch caters for 1-way and 2-way lighting circuits and also 1-gang and 2-gang switch types.

The current version does require a hub to connect to the net but not its own as it can pass through other hubs. I am currently investigating direct wifi connectivity.

Primary control is via the switch itself with remote control via an app.

So would this work with a Hive hub? Does it use the ZigBee protocol?

I assume the switch gets its power by connecting via the load? if this is the case is there any current leakage which may cause lights to glow dimly?
 
Ok, just looked at the website... and putting my devils advocate head on...

What differentiates your solution from the myriad of others that are out there already?

It's already been asked, but can it handle two-way switching?

Can it be trimmed down to fit 16mm back boxes? You've got quite a lot of bulk in that central section... could you change the board layout internally to make it thinner? It's not uncommon for light switches to be mounted to 16mm boxes.
Right Thanks SC Must look closer
 
Ok, just looked at the website... and putting my devils advocate head on...

What differentiates your solution from the myriad of others that are out there already?

It's already been asked, but can it handle two-way switching?

Can it be trimmed down to fit 16mm back boxes? You've got quite a lot of bulk in that central section... could you change the board layout internally to make it thinner? It's not uncommon for light switches to be mounted to 16mm boxes.

Devils advocate heads are exactly what I'm looking for on the forum, I want to understand the good, the bad and the ugly!

Its frustrating that my post isn't live yet, perhaps its because its my first, as the post helps to explain what differentiates it.

In a nutshell, it does not require a neutral and uses energy harvesting technology which means the remote switch does not require wires or batteries. There is no other product like it which integrates these two features. In addition my design allows the control of a single 9W LED bulb with no buzzing or flickering while others often require a minimum load of around 20W or the addition of a dummy load to provide stable operation.

I'm currently at a pre-production stage of development and looking to launch via Kickstarter, if the product gets some traction then with some miniaturisation design there is scope to reduce the depth to fit in a 16mm back box...this is the long term target.
 
Devils advocate heads are exactly what I'm looking for on the forum, I want to understand the good, the bad and the ugly!

Its frustrating that my post isn't live yet, perhaps its because its my first, as the post helps to explain what differentiates it.

In a nutshell, it does not require a neutral and uses energy harvesting technology which means the remote switch does not require wires or batteries. There is no other product like it which integrates these two features. In addition my design allows the control of a single 9W LED bulb with no buzzing or flickering while others often require a minimum load of around 20W or the addition of a dummy load to provide stable operation.

I'm currently at a pre-production stage of development and looking to launch via Kickstarter, if the product gets some traction then with some miniaturisation design there is scope to reduce the depth to fit in a 16mm back box...this is the long term target.
Do the propose cable terminations, enter from the back of the unit, or are theyentering from the side or top and bottom of the unit, I ask because some have asked the question regarding making the units shallower, however termining cables must be a factor in your design. Sorry just re read post 21 ignore my comments.
 
So would this work with a Hive hub? Does it use the ZigBee protocol?

It won't work with Hive as Hive tightly control which products can interface with their hub and app. It uses Zigbee or EnOcean and Wifi is in the pipeline.

I assume the switch gets its power by connecting via the load? if this is the case is there any current leakage which may cause lights to glow dimly?

Correct. The worst case for glowing is low powered LEDs and I haven't experienced any issues so far, at least down to 9W of low load on a single switch.
 

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