Does anyone no of companies that will manufacture our new patented electrical outlet that will make installing cookers and ovens are far easier job for all concerned.
Regards
Michael
Regards
Michael
- Thread starter Michael Gavaghan
- Start date
Have you tried the normal companies? Hager, proteus, MK, click, BG?
To be frank, installing a cooker or oven is a once in a while job.
It’s not a portable appliance that gets unplugged time and time again.
Is your design a plug and socket combination?
To be frank, installing a cooker or oven is a once in a while job.
It’s not a portable appliance that gets unplugged time and time again.
Is your design a plug and socket combination?
Yes meeting with a couple of them at ELEX in Harrogate at the end of April
There is no choice apart from the existing major manufacturers who will have the distribution network, manufacturing capability and most importantly the ability to adapt the design so it can actually be manufactured on their machinery.
Don't be surprised if you get knocked back by all of them as they've probably seen a thousand potential variations of an outlet and rejected them all.
Your last resort will be the thousands of knock off manufacturers in China.
Don't be surprised if you get knocked back by all of them as they've probably seen a thousand potential variations of an outlet and rejected them all.
Your last resort will be the thousands of knock off manufacturers in China.
Thanks yes just sent them an email cheers
Michael
Thanks. Yeah there definitely doesn't seem to be an isolation switch. I'm not sure I'm fully appreciating the benefit of using this product.
L
loz2754
It's not a cooker switch. It's an outlet plate with a combined 13 amp socket. Could be useful when connecting a hob and oven to the same outlet.
Yeah but if you use a traditional cooker control unit along with a cable outlet further down the wall then you have means of isolation. With this you don't have that. So what's the advantage?
N
nicebutdim
That appears to replace rear entry with bottom entry, while making no provision for isolation.
Not sure why anyone would want to bring fixed wiring forward onto wall surface and also remove provision for isolation. I'm sure there's some logic in it, but certainly none that I can see.
L
loz2754
Cooker outlet plates have never had a built in means of isolation. That would be provided by the cooker switch above the worktop.
The outlet plate goes below the worktop.
The outlet plate goes below the worktop.
I know, but what does this offer over a dual back box with an outlet plate and socket fitted in it?
It’s a combined outlet with a socket…. Like the isolation switch above could be a switch without a socket…
All it could be used for is electric igniter on a gas hob, with the oven hardwired.
Would the interior take the load of an electric induction hob and separate oven on a 13A plug?
All it could be used for is electric igniter on a gas hob, with the oven hardwired.
Would the interior take the load of an electric induction hob and separate oven on a 13A plug?
N
nicebutdim
Cooker outlets are generally fitted downstream from an isolator.
The sort of outlet this contraption seeks to replace usually has its own means of isolation.
It's as though someone decided it would be a good idea to combine the two and provide the least best option.
*Obviously my comments are directed at the linked patent and possibly not at product patented by the OP/
I think it might be intended to be mounted lower down like where a flex outlet would be. But fed from an isolator switch above.
N
nicebutdim
Cord grip is raised above plate level, so I suspect a cover is to be placed over it.
The inclusion of a 13A socket outlet led me to believe this was intended to replace the old fashioned cooker isolator/socket combo, but perhaps it is intended for used behind oven or below hob, with socket provided for gas igniter or microwave as previously suggested.
I need to get hold of a better imagination.
Yeah I think definitely that's the case. Just replaces a single socket and flex outlet. Still needs an isolator above.
Needs to be pretty cheap.
In parts of European 3-phase land, they like to plug cookers in with 5-pin Perilex plugs, or the Swiss or French equivalents. Usually 16A or optionally 25A, if the cooker shares the load reasonably evenly between the phases, the 16A plug gives the equivalent of 48A single-phase, or 32A if only two phases are used (leaving the the third for the oven). In single-phase installations, there is an unofficial re-purposing of the Perilex as 2 x 16A by connecting the L3 pin to neutral instead. Russia has a dedicated 3-pin cooker plug rated at 25A, so rather less useful but purpose-made with a flat design to fit behind a cooker.
When you have wired a cooker to a Perilex with nothing heavier than 2.5mm², our system that involves beating 6.0 or 10.0 into submission and/or then finding your oven has a 2.5mm² flex intended for a 16A circuit all seems a bit random. Also what we really don't have a neat solution for is the significant number of ovens that require a circuit fused at no more than 20A, but more than 13A. These are often intended to be plugged-in with a 16A plug in Europe, but as we don't have a 16A domestic socket in the UK we end up hard-wiring them, perhaps paralleled with the hob on a 32A circuit and conveniently overlooking the requirement for 20A max OCPD.
It is possible to design a relatively cheap but reliable 32A or even 40A connector with a low profile, if high insertion force and limited insertion cycle life are not important. If the OP wants to revolutionise cooker connections, how about a dual socket face plate with two 32A low-profile connectors that can accept 6.0 T+E or 5-core 2.5, with the option to fuse one down to 20A with a cartridge. A bridge too far? People said that about RCDs.
When you have wired a cooker to a Perilex with nothing heavier than 2.5mm², our system that involves beating 6.0 or 10.0 into submission and/or then finding your oven has a 2.5mm² flex intended for a 16A circuit all seems a bit random. Also what we really don't have a neat solution for is the significant number of ovens that require a circuit fused at no more than 20A, but more than 13A. These are often intended to be plugged-in with a 16A plug in Europe, but as we don't have a 16A domestic socket in the UK we end up hard-wiring them, perhaps paralleled with the hob on a 32A circuit and conveniently overlooking the requirement for 20A max OCPD.
It is possible to design a relatively cheap but reliable 32A or even 40A connector with a low profile, if high insertion force and limited insertion cycle life are not important. If the OP wants to revolutionise cooker connections, how about a dual socket face plate with two 32A low-profile connectors that can accept 6.0 T+E or 5-core 2.5, with the option to fuse one down to 20A with a cartridge. A bridge too far? People said that about RCDs.
I know, but I was trying to see what the major revelation was about it. I can't see anything groundbreaking apart from not having to make the short connection between a 13A socket and a flex outlet.
N
nicebutdim
The repetition was my fault as I was struggling to see past this outlet being given pride of place on a newly tiled wall.
I think it is a good idea if it will fit on a standard twin box.
I hate squeezing into a base unit and fighting with multiple cables trying to wire a socket and outlet for a gas ignition hob and 6kw oven or 6kw hob and 2kw oven.
If as said above it is reasonable price and it cuts down the time on installation I'm all for it. Did I mention I hate being crammed into a base unit!
I hate squeezing into a base unit and fighting with multiple cables trying to wire a socket and outlet for a gas ignition hob and 6kw oven or 6kw hob and 2kw oven.
If as said above it is reasonable price and it cuts down the time on installation I'm all for it. Did I mention I hate being crammed into a base unit!
If retrofitting an oven and a hob most likely will find there is only a 1 gang box there at present. The dual cooker connection units I find are great to work with
Back to the round pin 15A plugs maybe? They were ahead of their time!
Depends on what type of patent you have etc. if its not a bad idea... sell the Patent and walk off into the sunset . But if it is the outlet shown in the thread? If its any good , The Chinese will be all over it . "patents " mean nothing there . The cost to fully patent things costs a fortune .I owned a full patent that was established after 2 years .It cost £5k almost to the pound in 1992. I Then sold the full rights for £22k . I knew I could never fund the concept . But someone would want it and they did . And for them it was peanuts . Not a bad profit .Purchased a 20v Audi "UR" with the money !
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A lot of that is to do with IP considerations, more than rating. A company called Neutrik attempted to take that problem on with a range of connectors that are IPx5 16-32A and literally about the size of a fat thumb but they've only ever really caught on in the events world, and even then only as final connectors. Power - https://www.neutrik.com/en/products/power
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