no continuity on ring final neutrals | Page 2 | on ElectriciansForums

Discuss no continuity on ring final neutrals in the Periodic Inspection Reporting & Certification area at ElectriciansForums.net

As nickblake says you should be able to pin it down by testing which does not require taking all the fronts off. But if the order of circuits on the ring is not obvious you might need to take a few fronts off in the area you pin it down to - if the configuration is really confusing take a few fronts right off and then bell test the legs between sockets to work out where the ring goes.

Then IR test each leg separately to find the fault. Once you've identified which leg has the fault, consider replacing that leg with a new cable run along a route you choose to avoid too much damage to decoration etc - don't worry about trying to dig out all the faulty cable from behind the tiles etc.

This does risk isolating anything which you've not found that is spurred off the cable you abandon, so make sure you've found all the sockets, fcus...
 
if you find that it's not viable to locate the fault due to it being inaccessible without major damage, you could split the ring into 2 radials and replace the 32A MCB with 2 16A MCBs, 1 for each radial.

Agreed with that mate , how every that depends where the fault lies if its in a juction box under the floor say you could end up with sockets without a neutral
 
he would have to make the split between the 2 sockets that each have a N from each leg.if that makes sense. i.e cut out the section where the N is broke.
 
I have but was being too lazy to go out to the van and get it

You're missing my point.

Do you think you are competent to carry out periodic inspections?

I always try to offer help and advice on this forum but you are being paid for your 'expertise and knowledge', ultimately deciding if someone's installation is satisfactory for continued service.

You need to learn this (basic) theory stuff in the classroom, not while carrying out periodic inspections.
 
:nopity:




I know of an unqualified Electrical Trainee Domestic Installer that could come and find the fault for you :phone:

a Electrical Trainee couldn't find a socket in a wholesaler's
 
Hi guys, I'm just entering my third yr in September and after reading this post I have gone and bought guidance note 3, £6.70 from eBay! Bargain!

That will probably be one of the best £6.70 you will ever spend in your quest to become and Electrician. Master that book and you will with a bit of practical experience, in time be putting post's on here saying things like "The 2391 was a doddle, i dont know what all the fuss is about".

Cheers...........Howard
 
Instead of going round takeing all the socket facias off he needs to do a proper fault finding tests.

THE HALF TEST METHOD!


Afterall it might not just be a loose connection inside a socket!

I agree mate, but i find that on a small install it can be just as quick to whip them off one by one and have a look saves time finding the mid "ish' point especilally when DIY charlie has visited. But you are right the mid point method the best way for a larger circuit.

Cheers......Howard
 
Hi. Sorry to jump on thread but do not know how to start a new one for myself!
1) When doing a domestic periodic on a 32 A ring final circuit it did not show a r2 CPC end to end reading, however all other tests Zs etc were OK. Did a long lead test and it's the first leg from consumer unit to 1st socket. What code would be appropriate?
2) When testing 6A lighting circuit no R1+R2 reading. Again all other tests Zs etc were OK. What code would be appropriate?
Thanks.
 
do you want new or old codes well go for old both would be a code 3 requires further investigation , bit curiouse as to why you couldnt get an R1R2 reading when you got a Zs mind ,way to find the fault is to remove all sockets and check connections or more complicated do an R2Rn test around the sockets till you loose the reading

oh to start a new thread double click on general electrical forum then when it opens new thread is at the top
 
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