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Just put this light up.

35mm gap between the shade and ceiling - you can get your hand in and touch the chock blocks.

Not right is it.

Not sure I can work around so I guess it’s got to come down.

Not good.

[ElectriciansForums.net] Not happy with this John Lewis design - non compliant. [ElectriciansForums.net] Not happy with this John Lewis design - non compliant. [ElectriciansForums.net] Not happy with this John Lewis design - non compliant.
 
I have 2 fan heaters, each is 3kw, with a 13A plug. They have those rocker switches allowing 1kw, 2kw or 3kw options. Never been a problem and they are 30 years old.
Just saying...
 
But you can't get to the actual connections (terminals) on a pendant. Looks like you can with this.

Yes you can.
[automerge]1570772849[/automerge]
But you don't need a tool or key to open a pendant base either. Both sets of terminals in both fittings will be IP2X, and I'd assume you can take the glass off to change the lamps in the crappy light fitting so there should be no need for blind fumbling.

Like I say, just offering the opposite argument. I think that fitting is dire.

Good to hear the opposite argument, and I did try to convince myself to ‘let it go’ and leave it be, but my way of thinking is that if you are having to work hard to persuade yourself something’s OK probably isn’t the right way to approach things.

I think the original standard pendant was safer, as there is no need to undo the rose to change a lightbulb.

With this ‘flush light’, if installed badly (copper showing or loose cable popping out of choc bloc etc) then there is an (admittedly) small chance of getting a belt when changing a bulb.

I’d probably give it a code 3.

I didn’t want to leave the installation in a worse place then I found it.

I’ve sent an email to John Lewis - see what happens. I noted even their own customer reviews mentioned ‘can see electrical connections’.

Thanks all for contributing.
 
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