Outdoor 30w floodlight, trainee first project.

[DrewGil]

Hi Guys, I am about to start my first practical part of my sparky course, and need to put together a simple project for myself. I want to install a 30w floodlight (PIR) in my back garden. I have an existing wall mounted light that I want to extend from, on a 6A mcb and rcd protected lighting circuit switched from the kitchen. My question is the best method of conductor termination into the existing light? Is it best to terminate the circuit extension directly into the light terminals or use a outdoor junction box to extend the circuit from? I will not be using the existing wall light, for ease I don't want to rip it out. And does the fact that the light is switched from the kitchen ( special location ) make this project a non starter. hope I have explained myself well enough. any advice or constructive criticism welcome.
cheers guys

 

[Dillb]

I would terminate the existing cable into a suitable adaptable box/junction box, preferably inside if possible then take the flex from the light into that.

Also kitchens are not deemed to be a special location.

 

[telectrix]

replacethe existing light with a wiska IP66 box, then flex to the new PIR light. cable entries in wiska box from underneath with flex glands.lever wagos in the wiska box.

 

[DrewGil]

cheers guys, thought the junction box was the way to go. I was just trying to get around taking the existing light out, time to get hands dirty, only so much learning you can do from course books.

 

[JAWS]

Hi Drew what course are you on? Doesnt sound like the 2365

 

[DrewGil]

Hi Drew what course are you on? Doesnt sound like the 2365

Hi Massive, I’m doing 2382/2392 lvl 2, 2365 lvl 3
2394/2395 lvl 3, 2357 lvl 3 and AM2. As I don’t work in the electrical industry as of yet, I don’t get a lot of practical work.

 

[DrewGil]

I would terminate the existing cable into a suitable adaptable box/junction box, preferably inside if possible then take the flex from the light into that.

Also kitchens are not deemed to be a special location.

Cheers Dillb, I didn't explain myself very well there! what I meant by special location was, the extension of a kitchen circuit makes it notifiable work, as the switch to the light is in the kitchen I thought that might apply. Something to look into! cheers mate

 

[Dillb]

Cheers Dillb, I didn't explain myself very well there! what I meant by special location was, the extension of a kitchen circuit makes it notifiable work, as the switch to the light is in the kitchen I thought that might apply. Something to look into! cheers mate

I wouldnt of thought so if you are just swapping like for like and no new cables are going to be installed except for a bit of flex.

 

[DrewGil]

I wouldnt of thought so if you are just swapping like for like and no new cables are going to be installed except for a bit of flex.

As you can see, im still trying to get my head around bs7671 and the never ending regs that im trying to learn. cheers mate

 

[Dillb]

As you can see, im still trying to get my head around bs7671 and the never ending regs that im trying to learn. cheers mate

If you ever manage too let us all know how it works please

 

[DrewGil]

replacethe existing light with a wiska IP66 box, then flex to the new PIR light. cable entries in wiska box from underneath with flex glands.lever wagos in the wiska box.

cheers Telectrix, just discovered what Wagos are, will definitely be getting myself some of those. cheers mate

 

[telectrix]

cheers Telectrix, just discovered what Wagos are, will definitely be getting myself some of those. cheers mate

get the newer lever type (221)as they will accept flex as well as T/E.

screwfix do a kit of sevearal sizes.

 

[baldelectrician]

I use the Wiska Joint boxes

The combi 308 is my normal one but the 407 is good as you can insert a photocell kit in the JB which then controls all the lights ran off it quite neatly