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Whitey-Ford

I'm an Improver with six months experience in the Commercial sector, mainly with first and second fix contracts but have recently had a friend ask me to do some minor work on the outside of his home.
Im 90% confident I can do the job but wanted some advice first...

He wants a normal ring main socket on the outside of his house to power a water filter, my plan was to buy an IP rated socket box and spur from the ring main from inside his house. Either feeding the 2.5 from the back of the socket on the inside to the back on the outside so there is no expose cable or, under the box and up into the socket. Fixing the box to the wall is no problem, I have all my own drills and tools.

Excuse my naivety, but will the IP socket box come RDC protected or will I have to install one into the CU and feed it to the spur I'm installing? Like I said, I've never done any Domestic work and what I learnt at college is a blur as I qualified almost two years ago. I never did an apprenticeship I just went to college then like most of other people struggled to get into the industry.

I'll stop justifying now... lol
Hopefully what I was going to do is correct if not I would love to hear from you, along with anything else you think I should know. Cheers!
 
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You can but something like this which will do you fine. Unfortunately you will if in England or Wales have to notify this under Part P
 
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You can but something like this which will do you fine. Unfortunately you will if in England or Wales have to notify this under Part P

And unfortunately the fee for notifying building control will probably be a lot more than if you got a registered electrician to do the whole job! If you want to be fully legal check with your local BC about proceedure and fees before going ahead. It is probably worth pointing out as well that there is an awful lot of ignoring of part P going on.....if you know what I mean.
 
as above. socket must have RCD protection. either in the form of an RCD socket, or at source.
 
As above
Check
1/ MPB
2/ RCD
3/ IP ratings
4/ Notification to BC or registering with a Part P body - Long term it will be cheaper for you to get registered than going it alone.

However,

I wouldn't bother doing any outside work at the moment - you'll freeze your nuts off.
 
Personally I think the best way if your not registered with any of the Part P Body and BC fees are to high then you run the cables and install the plug and get a registered electrician to wire them all together.

Have a think about putting an MCBO in the CU as if it has a fault in the future it will only knock the MCBO out instead of the whole house.

If your registered with a Part P Body then carry on


It would be worth asking the BC how much they charge if you certificate the install as a qualified
electrician but not registered with Part P Body. You may find the fees may be reduced.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
My LABC charge £180 to sign off all electrical work and only £60 if its an electrician who can issue an installation certificate.

Yes I did mean RCDO - lol
 
my local robbers want £184 where your's want £60.

Yer buddy mine wanted about the same 4yrs back when i upgraded my cu for an assessment with NICEIC ! after wanting to see my quals etc etc and still charged me in full with no discounts ! if id have thought right id have waited till i got my pass then signed the blooming thing off ! robbing basts !!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Its great - not worth joining NAPIT/NICEIC If your only going to do 10 notifiable jobs per year!

Shame I do alot more - lol

I wonder if LABC will be happy with 1 installation over 30 houses? - 30 notifiable jobs per month (If Im really lucky)
Over 10 months only £600 - same price as my Napit - lol
 
Ok guys thanks for the info, hopefully in March I will be Part P complient. I'm getting funding from my local college to do the course, I'll try holding out on the work until then. Have to be honest this is something I really want to sink my teeth into, hopefully he's not too desperate to get the work done too soon.
 
Whitey ,Just get on with it mate and dont get paranoid about the notification

If you are a spark at least you are skilled and capable,thats what is important
For every spark that gets concerned and notify or leave domestic work alone because of this notification for these small jobs,there are literally thousands of incompetent diyers installing like no tomorrow
 
If you sign up with Napit, you dont need your 17th Edition till 6 months after you sign up

Then you need 2391 within 12 months.


Register now and give it a go, I take you will have at least a Lv2 in Electrical Installation.
 
If you sign up with Napit, you dont need your 17th Edition till 6 months after you sign up

Then you need 2391 within 12 months.


Register now and give it a go, I take you will have at least a Lv2 in Electrical Installation.
I'm qualified to levels two and three 17th edition, like I said I'm hopefully doing my Part P next month. The only testing I've ever done were in my practical exams so wasn't sure if I would get through the 2391?
 
I'm qualified to levels two and three 17th edition, like I said I'm hopefully doing my Part P next month. The only testing I've ever done were in my practical exams so wasn't sure if I would get through the 2391?

Whats a part P Whitey?....I've never quite got my head round this idea that you can get a part p qualification,it's a building regulation document,not a qualification.....or have I got it wrong?
 
when will PEOPLE GET IT THROUGH THEIR HEADS part p qualified ISNT A QUALIFICATION ffs as FOR napit NOT WANTING 17TH EDITION for 6 months and 2391 12 months IM Amazed No wonder there are so many problems with Joe Bloggs calling electricians "cowboys"
 
I've just had a thought, lets say I take this on... Will I have to Bolster into the wall for a back box or are IP rated socket boxs simply mounted in such a way all I'll need to do is drill a hole for the cable?

Hope that made sense... One thing you'll learn about me is that I'm loaded with stupid questions. :D
 
No need for any chiselling,use the stuffing glands provided for the cable entry,dress the conductors with a drip loop where it enters so that if water did track down the cable it doesn't get to the connections, also drill a small hole in the bottom as a drain hole
 

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