Oven connected into ring - EGBR says this is ok?

[HappyHippyDad]

I have just been asked by a customer if he can just plug his new cooker into a socket. I have said 'No' it needs to be on a dedicated circuit..

I then thought I'd do a bit of research as its only a 2.5kW oven and wanted to see it in black and white in the regs.

I didn't ecpect the Electricians Guide to the Building Regulations (Page 55 - 4.4) to say

"For lightly loaded circuits ovens of rating 13A or less may be connected into a ring final circuit"

Not sure if his kitchen is on its own ring, but if it is I guess its ok to plug in the oven?

Just doesn't seem right, especially after seeing all of Jason's entrys about having to be 2kW or less?

ps... I'll make this my last post for a bit, getting a bit carried away and a bit addicted to this electrics lark ...:rolleyes4:

 

[Flanders]

Sorry just realised you took the flex of hob This might affect the warranty.

 

[HappyHippyDad]

Thanks Flanders,

You're right it may affect the warranty but I just couldn't leave the 2.5mm on there knowing it was only protected by a 32A MCB. I cant see anything wrong with replacing smaller cable for bigger? Just seems crazy charging the lady hundreds of pounds for a new circuit when this is safe!

 

[GLENNSPARK]

Ok.. but if it doesn't have a plug?

Lets say it doesn't have a plug, the kitchen is on its own ring and its less than or equal to 13A?

use diversity here...
if its 3KW...then you can usually knock a KW off it....
think about it....if the oven has a grill...then the internal wiring will dictate that both grill and oven will not be on at once....

 

[Guitarist]

Just thought I'd finish the thread. The original oven was plugged in, the new oven stated that it could have a plug fitted fused to 13A so thats what I did. The hob was confusing! It had 2.5mm flex on it and stated that it needed to be fused down to 23A (it was 5000W). The 45A cooker switch fed both oven and hob and was run with 6mm cable protected by 32A MCB.

I have removed the flex on the hob and connected the 6mm (that was previously feeding the last hob)directly into the new hob as there were 32A terminals in a box fitted into the underneath of the hob.

I didn't like taking off the flex as that is what it came with but I have to admit that I didn't know how to fuse down to 23A - I cant change the MCB as it feeds both oven/hob and needs to be 32A. Is there a FCU that is greater than 13A??

A appliance actually stated to fuse it down to 23A?

 

[Geoffsd]

The 45A cooker switch fed both oven and hob and was run with 6mm cable protected by 32A MCB.

Nearly all of them are. You don't need a new circuit.

I have removed the flex on the hob and connected the 6mm (that was previously feeding the last hob)directly into the new hob as there were 32A terminals in a box fitted into the underneath of the hob.

4mm would do. Actually 2.5mm would probably do but that would require knowledge and test equipment.

I didn't like taking off the flex as that is what it came with but I have to admit that I didn't know how to fuse down to 23A - I cant change the MCB as it feeds both oven/hob and needs to be 32A.

Does it?

OPDs are there to protect the cable, not appliances.

Is there a FCU that is greater than 13A??

No. Do you think you should be doing this work?


You'd think there would be tradesmen around who knew how to do this sort of thing.

Goodness me, what if it was a COOKER with hob and oven stuck together?

 

[Flanders]

Thanks Flanders,

You're right it may affect the warranty but I just couldn't leave the 2.5mm on there knowing it was only protected by a 32A MCB. I cant see anything wrong with replacing smaller cable for bigger? Just seems crazy charging the lady hundreds of pounds for a new circuit when this is safe!

Yes the circuit is safe but...
The Hob is still protected by a 32 amp fuse so if there was a fault then would the internal wiring/connection unit cope with extra load before the MCB trips.

I have a 20 amp MCB protecting my hob and never had a problem

 

[GLENNSPARK]

Yes the circuit is safe but...
The Hob is still protected by a 32 amp fuse so if there was a fault then would the internal wiring/connection unit cope with extra load before the MCB trips.

I have a 20 amp MCB protecting my hob and never had a problem

the fuse/breaker protects the cable..
Happyhippy....crack on..its OK...

 

[Geoffsd]

Yes the circuit is safe but...
The Hob is still protected by a 32 amp fuse so if there was a fault then would the internal wiring/connection unit cope with extra load before the MCB trips.

How will a hob overload the circuit?

I have a 20 amp MCB protecting my hob and never had a problem

Precisely.

 

[HappyHippyDad]

A appliance actually stated to fuse it down to 23A?

Yes G, it really did say that, I'm not one to exagerate. You are one of the more experienced forum users and I would genuinely appreciate to hear what you would have done?

6mm cable fed from a 32A MCB to 45A cooker switch which splits (with 6mm) to a socket for oven (approx 2.5KW) and hob 5KW (which had 2.5mm flex attached).

Nearly all of them are. You don't need a new circuit.


4mm would do. Actually 2.5mm would probably do but that would require knowledge and test equipment.


Does it?

OPDs are there to protect the cable, not appliances.


No. Do you think you should be doing this work?


You'd think there would be tradesmen around who knew how to do this sort of thing.

Goodness me, what if it was a COOKER with hob and oven stuck together?

Yes :winkiss:

 

[Flanders]

How will a hob overload the circuit?


Precisely.

As stated the hob should be protected By a 23 amp fuse So I would say that if there is a fault with the Hob the internal wiring and terminal block of the hob can safely run at up to 23 amps were as the only over load protection for the hob is 32 amps So yes the circuit will take the load but will the Hob ??

 

[SPARTYKUS]

use diversity here...
if its 3KW...then you can usually knock a KW off it....
think about it....if the oven has a grill...then the internal wiring will dictate that both grill and oven will not be on at once....

yo Glenn

got caught out with this tuther day, they had a big posh cooker (4k) that came with its own 10mm2 3core heat resistant flex on it - turns out you can have the grill onat the same time as the oven.


for.....

PIZZA!!!

 

[GLENNSPARK]

As stated the hob should be protected By a 23 amp fuse So I would say that if there is a fault with the Hob the internal wiring and terminal block of the hob can safely run at up to 23 amps were as the only over load protection for the hob is 32 amps So yes the circuit will take the load but will the Hob ??

explain please which wholesalers i could get a 23A fuse from....
i want one for my collection...

 

[GLENNSPARK]

yo Glenn

got caught out with this tuther day, they had a big posh cooker (4k) that came with its own 10mm2 3core heat resistant flex on it - turns out you can have the grill onat the same time as the oven.


for.....

PIZZA!!!

the cable CSA would give the game away eh sparty....

 

[HappyHippyDad]

yo Glenn

got caught out with this tuther day, they had a big posh cooker (4k) that came with its own 10mm2 3core heat resistant flex on it - turns out you can have the grill onat the same time as the oven.


for.....

PIZZA!!!

I cant believe you are replying to this when Han Solo is at this very moment fleeing the imperial fleet!!!

 

[Leckie]

Is overload protection required for a resistive load such as a hob? The flex should not have been removed I suspect. Fault protection is of course required.