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W

westlondont

I have an electric oven with a fused 13amp plug connected.
If I remove the plug would it be ok to change the wire from the cooker to a 4 or 6mm t and e and wire it straight into the cooker outlet plate?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Don't forget the fuse protects the cable nothing more.

If a fault occurs then the RCD isolates the supply.

The reason for the 13A plug is the cooker does not draw much current - hence no need for a large cable - hence the correct size fuse for the cable = 13A.

There is no harm in putting 2.5mm T&E Flex on it at that rated oven (prob what they used).

You can wire it straight into the cooker connection plate - again no harm in it but check the warranty - if anything goes wrong put the 13A plug back on.

You can leave the 32A MCB as it is as that is protecting the 6mm or 10mm cable from the CU to the cooker connection plate - changing i wont make any difference unless you change it to a bigger cooker.
As standard I always put 10mm cable from the CU to the shower and cooker when Im installing a new circuit - you never know who will upgrade the appliances and not check the cable!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Don't forget the fuse protects the cable nothing more.

If a fault occurs then the RCD isolates the supply.

The reason for the 13A plug is the cooker does not draw much current - hence no need for a large cable - hence the correct size fuse for the cable = 13A.

There is no harm in putting 2.5mm T&E Flex on it at that rated oven (prob what they used).

You can wire it straight into the cooker port - again no harm in it but check the warranty - if anything goes wrong put the 13A plug back on.

Thanks Nicholas.

I wasnt sure about 2.5mm but thats because the mcb was a 32amp with a 16amp breaker I think it should be ok with the 2.5mm.
I just had one ****ty day today, and ended up with brain freeze.

Im gonna sink a few pints and it will all be clearer in the morning I think.
 
Can you not change the cooker outlet plate to a single socket and plug it straight in ? or do you have a electric hob using the outlets as well ?


Its a gas hob, the cooker outlet is behind the cooker so if the fuse blows because the oven light goes or something I would have to pull the whole lot out if I needed to change it, and to try to run the plug on the cooker to a reachable socket is a real pain in the a*se.

Changing the cable on the cooker is simple, and now I know its on its own radial, Im gonna change the mcb to a 16amp.
 
Faults to appliance internal cables, connections, contacts, switches, motors, etc. Why, in some cases, are internal fuses used ? All this reliance on RCD's...... if one is fitted that is. For example, why are 3 amp fuses recommended for certain appliances when the flexible cable is capable of carrying much more ?
 

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