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ringer

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Have not had to test any 110V appliances yet, but want to be prepared for if/when I do. I have made up a 110V socket-->3pin plug and a 110V plug -->C13 connector and have used these to test a 110V extension lead. But when I come across a 110V appliance, what tests should I do? Am thinking I could do visual, Earth Bond @ 25amp, and IR @ 500VDC. Is there any other tests I ought to be doing? And are these tests appropriate on 110V equipment? I am using a Fluke 6500.
 
This seems to be one of the very few threads on these forums where there is no replies whatsoever. Did I put this in the wrong forum? Did I ask an idiotic question? Does no-one on here have an opinion on this, or even better an answer?

Oh well, it seems then that if I come across a 110v appliance the only tests I can do is visual, earth bond and insulation. No load/leakage.
 
Have not had to test any 110V appliances yet, but want to be prepared for if/when I do. I have made up a 110V socket-->3pin plug and a 110V plug -->C13 connector and have used these to test a 110V extension lead. But when I come across a 110V appliance, what tests should I do? Am thinking I could do visual, Earth Bond @ 25amp, and IR @ 500VDC. Is there any other tests I ought to be doing? And are these tests appropriate on 110V equipment? I am using a Fluke 6500.

I personally would love to give you the answer but I am not familiar with your equipment I use the megger pat4 which is preprogrammed for 110v and has its own connections for 110v so dont want to mislead.


Chris
 
:D yeah, thought that went without saying.

Scenario: me to customer: Here's your drill back. It failed the test because it doesn't work any more.
 
Again, I haven't used the Fluke 6500 I use a Martindale Easypat 2100 which tests at the voltage it's supplied at, ie convert the tester's plug to 110v and run it off a transformer and it will test 110v equipment.
Would that work if you did it the other way around, as in test the equipment through a transformer and subtract the difference from the reading?
I haven't tried doing that myself or even thought it through properly, but is there any reason why it wouldn't work?
 
If that works on the Easypat 2100 then the Easypat probably has input voltage detection - in other words, this is expected and it has appropriate circuitry build in to it to operate at 110V. I would have thought that the Fluke does not expect to have 110V applied and so will not function at this voltage. I have put in a request at Fluke to confirm this, but am not holding my breath while awaiting a reply.
 
I certainly wouldn't try that without checking with Fluke first, but what i mean is if you test a 110v transformer, leave the transformer plugged into the tester and plug the 110v equipment into the transformer, and test both together, then take off the readings you got for just the transformer.
Would that work?
 
Not familiar with 100V transformers. Would it instantly (within the 5 seconds of the load test) output 110V when powered up ? Plus I think the transformer would prove to be a little heavy to carry around in my toolbag :)
 
True, like I said I haven't really thought it though properly. Most of the 110v equipment I have tested has belonged to builders when i have done all the kit on their vans, so I have relied on them having a transformer which I could test at 230v, and then use their transformer to test their 110v kit; when I've done it on site there has always been a 110v supply which i could use, although that doesn't help in your case.
 
Confirmed by Bob at Fluke...

"Dear .... You can perform the required mandatory tests which are the Visual, Earthbond and Insulation tests using the TA700 adapter. The tester cannot be powered up at 110V or perform the live tests at 110V (Sub/leakage, Touch/leakage & Run/leakage) as it does not contain a 110V transformer, this is what makes it smaller, lighter and more portable, but still allows you to pass 110V appliances ."

Jolly decent of them to reply, though I wouldn't describe the 6500 as being particularly light!
 

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