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Hello,

My PC Power Supply Unit came fitted with a 13A fuse in the power cable. When i just turned my pc on it blown the fuse and now its completely dead. I took the Power Supply Unit out and checked the label and it says:

Input Current 10A – 5A

I did not realise this as i thought the cable that came with the unit would just work straight out the box! My question is, do i use a 10A fuse or 5A?? and would they be safe to plug in a power strip?

Thank you!
 
The current available from a modern PC power supply 12V and 5V rail is well above the fairly small stall current of the motor in a modern hard drive. I suspect there was something else going on.

Maybe the old full-height Rodimes from the 70s/80s though!
 
Seagate 500gig Sata from an external hard drive case.
Installed drive into slide mount carrier.
Switched off pc, slid in drive, turned on pc.
Fuse blew on start up.
Further investigation showed drive had siezed.
Suspect it had been dropped whilst running.
 
Seagate 500gig Sata from an external hard drive case.
Installed drive into slide mount carrier.
Switched off pc, slid in drive, turned on pc.
Fuse blew on start up.
Further investigation showed drive had siezed.
Suspect it had been dropped whilst running.

Fair play, if that's what happened, but seems odd - stall current on the very low torque spindle motors is tiny.
 
Problem solved, it was a faulty power supply. Same brand as the first 1 as it was a replacement and again its was faulty, who would have thought, 2 faulty PSUs in a row! And no its not a cheap PSU its the Corsair RM650X which is a gold standard PSU. I've replaced it with another brand and it works perfectly fine, no popping sounding when i flick the switch.

Thank you everyone for your help
 
Problem solved, it was a faulty power supply. Same brand as the first 1 as it was a replacement and again its was faulty, who would have thought, 2 faulty PSUs in a row! And no its not a cheap PSU its the Corsair RM650X which is a gold standard PSU. I've replaced it with another brand and it works perfectly fine, no popping sounding when i flick the switch.

Thank you everyone for your help

Thanks for the feedback mate.
 
Glad you got it sorted. 9 times out of 10 it's the power supply at fault.

Even with named brand PSU's, cheaper versions in the range can have poor quality components such as inferior electrolytic capacitors. It does sound like a bad batch though. I prefer to use higher end Corsair and Seasonic power supplies in systems with powerful graphics cards.
 

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