Amp David

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Mentor
Arms
... placing the FCU or socket for a chimney style kitchen cooker hood actually inside the chimney.

My thoughts are that its not the best of ideas as moisture must be an issue, but seen today that its the way one spark does it every time.
 
Technically, one could argue that a socket or FCU behind the chimney is fine, as the chimney can be removed for accessibility.

Im assuming extractor type stainless steel type.
 
are those chimneys the actual extract vent though? i presumed they would have a 4" duct running up inside them??
havent fitted one for ages so cant remember, i would have thought FCU at socket level with flex outlet plate within chimney
 
I would say it was in contravention of the External influences section of the regs...cos its going to receive moisture and grease and god knows what else..a j.b would be the same.

I tend to find their is a top cupboard next to the hood and I install a Socket or a FSCU on top of it out of site .and run the pre-wired extractor flex into it.
 
are those chimneys the actual extract vent though? i presumed they would have a 4" duct running up inside them??
havent fitted one for ages so cant remember, i would have thought FCU at socket level with flex outlet plate within chimney


Yes, there would normally be a flexible plastic duct lining inside the stainless chimney: if this if fitted correctly then the fuse spur, J box or flex outlet plate should be clean and dry. Adjoining high level cabinets are great when they are there, but they never seem to be when I want one!
 
Yep I'm guilty as well. Chosen to do it loads of tiimes.

I came across a spur for the hood and the under unit lights the other day on top of a cupboard, I'd already had the cooker hood off looking for it!

Agree with Pinto Baz, if ducted corrrectly would there be any risk of grease or moisture?
 
i got pulled up on this during my first elecsa assesment.
FCU, sufrace mounted, behind the chimney(stainless steel), ducting.
no way of local isolation, for the appliance. with out removal of the chimmney, with a specalist tool i.e, a screw driver. the inspector said this was not safe, if the appliacne had to be cleaned. so, therefore, FCU at worktop height, feeding a flex-outlet or JB. i agree. good old elecsa, then i went and joined the nic! lol, WHY!
 
what if the cooker hood comes with a 13amp plug and it voids manufacturers warranty to cut it off? personally i would go for a socket level FCU and un unswitched 13A single behind the chimney any thoughts?
 
what if the cooker hood comes with a 13amp plug and it voids manufacturers warranty to cut it off? personally i would go for a socket level FCU and un unswitched 13A single behind the chimney any thoughts?

I agree, this is how I've done many times, if a well sealed duct is in place then the connection point behind the chimney hood would be as clean and dry as the day you fitted it.

A point of isolation and correctly ducted is the priority here.

If the socket/fcu was above a cupboard next to the chimney not many of my customers are going to want to see a flex cable dangling across to the cooker hood
 
I would say it was in contravention of the External influences section of the regs...cos its going to receive moisture and grease and god knows what else..a j.b would be the same.

I tend to find their is a top cupboard next to the hood and I install a Socket or a FSCU on top of it out of site .and run the pre-wired extractor flex into it.

Agreed TPES


If only circular you could fit a IP rated outside socket:D
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I first thought that this was an issue on the recirculating types of hoods where the air isn't ducted away.

On the recirculating types there has to be moisture inside the chiney as this is how most of the vent the air back into the room.
 
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Amp David

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