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Hi guys I have a mate who wants one socket and light in his shed, luckily theres a socket in the house where i can drill through the wall and spur to the outside to wack a wiska box on ..then from there to the shed in 2.5mm swa 3 core buried 400mm...but only thing thats in my head is that how can I get the supply for the lights as i cant take another spur from the socket that im going to put into the shed as it would be classed as a spur off a spur into a fcu or should i just use 2.5mm for the light aswell?.....also can normal sockets and switches be used in a wood shed or would waterproof im slightly towards waterproof just to avoid any problems...oh yeah and the ring im spuring off from the house is rcd protected ;)

thanks guys!
 
Last edited:
Is this a windup?

Please note, he's a Trainee so please respond with a little more understanding of his learning curve.

assegayer - ensuring you already have rcd protection then if loading is minimal then just use another spur to derate for your lights, if 'although unlikely' the shed has a steel structure, metal gas or water inputs then bonding requirements will need to be accounted for.

PS assegayer - best use the trainee section while you moving up the trainee ranks :)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
One option is to fit a switched fused spur in the house to feed the shed. You can then fit as many sockets as you like in the shed. This also has the big advantage of being able to isolate the shed supply if a fault develops out there which trips the RCD and kills power to half of the house.

For the light you could fit another switched fused spur in the shed with a 5A fuse, this gives you a switch and fuses down for the light in one unit.
 
Thanks a lot darkwood, shed is purely made out of wood luckily so wouldnt have to worrie about that, would you reccomend using a weatherproof socket and switch or normal metal clad? thanks

Personally I normally fit metalclad in sheds and garages.
If the shed is in such a state that it looks likely to let water in then I'd probably advise against having electrics in there at all.

If you do fit metalclad it's best to use side or bottom knockouts only to maintain the IP rating of the top surface of the box or if you do use the top it you need to ensure no holes are left so use stuffing glands or similar (you need oval inserts for glands if using with t&e)
 

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