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Hi guys I have a mate who wants one socket and light in his shed, luckily theres a socket in the house where i can drill through the wall and spur to the outside to wack a wiska box on ..then from there to the shed in 2.5mm swa 3 core buried 400mm...but only thing thats in my head is that how can I get the supply for the lights as i cant take another spur from the socket that im going to put into the shed as it would be classed as a spur off a spur into a fcu or should i just use 2.5mm for the light aswell?.....also can normal sockets and switches be used in a wood shed or would waterproof im slightly towards waterproof just to avoid any problems...oh yeah and the ring im spuring off from the house is rcd protected ;)

thanks guys!
 
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Good good. I only asked as If you weren't I have a couple of weeks work in London soon I could have got you in on.


Very gracious of you Dave. A bit of experience with a man of your knowledge would benefit the lad a great deal.

It seems to be a dying thing to be trained by people that actually have a proper understanding of how to design and install properly. The 2 companies i worked for were certainly lacking in the fundamental knowledge and skills to achieve this.

Sad really and feel i have put lots of effort over the last few years to people who were only interested in making money and not giving much thought about the quality of work at the end.
Hopefully going to retrain with WPD and do overhead lines. Start from the bottom again but at least get some decent training.
 
Dave, any reason not to use 3a fuse in fcu for lights?
no reason not to. it's just common practice to use 5A as the wiring to the lights will usually be 1.5mm or 1.0mm. don't forget that the fuse is to protect the cable it feeds, not thefittinbg/s.
 
Im 10 months in my apprenticeship & the way we have been shown is:
Feed taken from a switched fused spur in the house to a plastic GWiz box on the otherside out side. From there a 3 core SWA to the garage terminated in a metal fused switch. The 3 core & double socket cables are fitted to the supply side & light cables to the load side. This way the load side is protected by fuse & the supply side by mcb/rcd in house consumer unit.
If there is going to be any more than 1 double socket we would fit a garage consumer unit.

loki
 
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Im 10 months in my apprenticeship & the way we have been shown is:
Feed taken from a switched fused spur in the house to a plastic GWiz box on the otherside out side. From there a 3 core SWA to the garage terminated in a metal fused switch. The 3 core & double socket cables are fitted to the supply side & light cables to the load side. This way the load side is protected by fuse & the supply side by mcb/rcd in house consumer unit.
If there is going to be any more than 1 double socket we would fit a garage consumer unit.

loki
If you have supplied the cable to the garage from a switched fused spur then you have limited the total current taken on that cable to a maximum of 13A, unless it is necessary to further protect a later branch of the circuit (as you may wish to do for lighting) then there is no requirement to fit any further protection inside the garage.
The metal fused switch is unnecessary (although a double pole switch may be useful for local isolation purposes).
A garage consumer unit would also be overkill and unless you were using 6 or 10 A circuit breakers the protection would generally be pointless as the fuse in the spur in the house would be lower rated.
The MCB in the house consumer unit would be very unlikely to operate but the RCD would provide additional protection.
 
which is why it's better practice to come from the house non-RCD protected and fit RCD in shed/garage, always assuming that the cable/s and installation method /s do not require RCD protection themselves
 
If you have supplied the cable to the garage from a switched fused spur then you have limited the total current taken on that cable to a maximum of 13A, unless it is necessary to further protect a later branch of the circuit (as you may wish to do for lighting) then there is no requirement to fit any further protection inside the garage.
The metal fused switch is unnecessary (although a double pole switch may be useful for local isolation purposes).
A garage consumer unit would also be overkill and unless you were using 6 or 10 A circuit breakers the protection would generally be pointless as the fuse in the spur in the house would be lower rated.
The MCB in the house consumer unit would be very unlikely to operate but the RCD would provide additional protection.

Thanks for clearing that up for me. Im learning more & more daily :smile:
I was aware that the way we have been shown does limit the max current to 13amps for the garage circuit.
 
which is why it's better practice to come from the house non-RCD protected and fit RCD in shed/garage, always assuming that the cable/s and installation method /s do not require RCD protection themselves

Thanks, That would explain the ETN consumer unit I recently fitted had 3 neutral bars two linked to RCD & the other not so you could have non rcd protected circuits.
 

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