Practical advice sought

[Les Macaulay]

Guys, I have to improve the situation where original socket outlets were flush installed into the fawn coloured finished brickwork. The job is 20 years old, and was done by non-electricians. They have simply left part of the brick out when building walls where a socket was to be installed. The result of this is that the hole left for the twin socket boxes is far too tall. The result is that there is gap at top and/or bottom of flush socket plates leaving the socket to "fall" into the top or bottom of the hole instead of "landing" on a solid surround of brick work. The sockets, when tightened by the box screws, tend to be forced into the opening at top or bottom. If I try to cement around the opening with the socket removed the cement "fillet" is not strong enough to withstand the tightening of the socket, especially in a games hall area where the football can strike the socket face. I will be attempting to remedy this soon and was contemplating fixing a narrow strip of timber along top or bottom of each opening, to give a solid "landing" along the "missing" brick work. Any better ideas on how this could be sorted. In the kitchen of the same building they have tiled up to each socket, so the socket cannot be readily removed without cutting away the grouting. These socket faces are almost truly flush with the tiles. Now I remember what basic apprenticeship training was all about!! Cheers - Les

 

[ruston]

Guys, I have to improve the situation where original socket outlets were flush installed into the fawn coloured finished brickwork. The job is 20 years old, and was done by non-electricians. They have simply left part of the brick out when building walls where a socket was to be installed. The result of this is that the hole left for the twin socket boxes is far too tall. The result is that there is gap at top and/or bottom of flush socket plates leaving the socket to "fall" into the top or bottom of the hole instead of "landing" on a solid surround of brick work. The sockets, when tightened by the box screws, tend to be forced into the opening at top or bottom. If I try to cement around the opening with the socket removed the cement "fillet" is not strong enough to withstand the tightening of the socket,.[COLOR="#FF0000"] especially in a games hall area where the football can strike the socket face [/COLOR]I will be attempting to remedy this soon and was contemplating fixing a narrow strip of timber along top or bottom of each opening, to give a solid "landing" along the "missing" brick work. Any better ideas on how this could be sorted. In the kitchen of the same building they have tiled up to each socket, so the socket cannot be readily removed without cutting away the grouting. These socket faces are almost truly flush with the tiles. Now I remember what basic apprenticeship training was all about!! Cheers - Les

I would be more worried about this

 

[Dez]

Perhaps you could try using more mortar and force it down the side of the backbox and ensure it becomes flush with the surface, or use bonding, it depends on what finish you want to be visible. Oh and use metal sockets if they are likely to get hit by footballs.

 

[Guest55]

i'd refuse to do the work until proper repair is done to the masonary
not really within an electrians remit to deal with so knock it back.

 

[Les Macaulay]

Thanks for good advice, men.

 

[Sintra]

You could always fit a finger plate behind the socket providing it covers the hole.

G H 810SS Brushed Steel Finger Plate Surround 212mm x 152mm for Double Plate - Ashdown Light Store Switches & Sockets

 

[Les Macaulay]

Many thanks for this. Was thinking of this as an "if only they made a strong 2-gang finger plate. Will take up this suggestion on Internet as local suppliers not heard of them when I asked. Cheers.

 

[not clever]

Or use yooyzi box and then point in around the backbox. Finger guards would look better.

 

[Les Macaulay]

Thanks for the Yazoo box idea - was reading about them in the PE mag. I wondered if when removing the Yazoo when cement/plaster is dry would this break it away trying to release the grip of the surrounding plaster? The brushed steel finger plates cost £15 plus PT but it seems the neatest finished solution. Thanks.

 

[chrish_1977]

Expanding foam is always a favourite when there's nothing behind to hold the back box in place, then fill around with a little bonding after foams gone off

 

[ackbarthestar]

Flush fitting socket plates into painted brick?......
Must have been wired in buried conduit and the back boxes held in by a coupler and bush.
But , you say the job was done by non-electricians?
The mind boggles how that setup will look....

 

[Les Macaulay]

This is what I am up against. The full story is, I am a voluntary worker as a retired spark and member of my local church. I even updated to the 17th and Insp & Test exams and passed three years ago. Just trying to keep myself useful and sane at the same time. Cheers. Finished brick work should not have flush accessories, I agree. Even the course cement in the hall projects untidily from the concrete block work. I am past being critical of their effort and design 20 years ago. I am 68 but active. I even got them to buy a multi tester to 17th edition spec.

 

[ruston]

I would still be worried about footballs being as you say," smashed into the socket face ". if anything is left plugged in at the time the hall is being used for football, and the plugtop or even the socket gets smashed and this goes unnoticed the consequences could be disastrous.

Are the sockets fit for the environment is the question.

 

[Les Macaulay]

No fear of any of this as the sockets in hall were all changed by me years ago to brushed metal type. It's the fact that they cannot be made secure against the gap around part of them that needs attention to detail. What would you do if it was plaster board that had been cut slightly over the size of the socket plate? Almost the same problem.

 

[ruston]

No , a brick fix is simple.

If it is plasterboard and the gap is the top and edges simply screw laths behind the gap and fill with board adhesive or the like. If mechanical damage IS NOT a problem and the gap is just at the edges a three way converta socket will take this up, easiest and quickest solution.