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Hello,

I have been asked by a builder to price a house per point.

I have never done it this way but its what they want.

Is there an average price??
Also what about shower, cooker etc??
 
A lot of it will be dictated by where you live/work. And as it's a builder he'll want you to give him a really low price because he's doing you a favour by giving you the work, or some other such BS!

Their have been a fair few posts about this subject and you could do a search to see what you find, but I personally charge 40-45 per point but 70-90 if it's a shower or cooker.

Hope this helps?
 
I sometimes do it per point.
Sockets and lights £A per point.
Cooker £B per point
Shower £C per point
Anything on its own circuit £D per point
Consumer unit £E per point
Bonding £F per point
Testing £G

Or add up all the points as above see what you want for job and divide number of points by total cost of job.

Be careful, because pricing by point means some you win some you lose and the builder may want you to do only the difficult points!
 
have you got a floor plan, if not measure the perimeter of each room x 2 thats your cable length each point on that room £25
then same for light fittings
shower/cooker from CU to point x2 for cable and £60 each fitting IE pull swich or toggle
add up all accessories and x2 the price you pay
work all that out add £60 for the Cert
see how it comes out
the compare it with £25-35 per hour + materiels then charge the highest how you word youe quote is down to you
if the builder is suppling the gear tell him its a flat £30 per hour or what ever the going rate is in you part of the country
Pict
 
with a builder you must stress its a price per point based on a rewire not a few extra sockets
you wont win on price with abuilder whatever you do and if you do they will moan and find someone else , total nightmare builders are
 
This is in reply to top cats post.

I think this is how they want it set out, but a few more questions.
1. These prices, are they including all materials, cable, face plates etc??
2. The difference in cost for a shower or cooker run is massive so is it just a case of win some lose some??
3. The shower price doesnt include a shower i hope ha?? Just want to make sure.
4. The consumer unit price, is that for tails, wired, everything?? What if they want rcbo's??
5. And will the test include the cert??

Im more of a go and have a look then price person, hate going in blind!!

Thanks for all your advice.
 
A builder wants you to price per outlet.?
How far has the building/extension progressed?

The 'first fix' may already be in, so I'd be wary.

However, price for the whole job and divide it by the number of outlets you might expect for the size of installation.

Personally, I only work for known builders not ones that have found me though some dubious publication or trawled the' find an electrician' databases
 
I used to price per point etc until this recession came along . I still do it the same and then stand back and think , does this look/ feel right ,usually ends with me lowering it. At the moment there are too many numpties working for nothing.!!!!Driving down the price. The customer wants something for nothing and the builder wants a cut!
dont know why I bother really.
 
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Almost all my work is done on price per point. It works every time, and i do have to negotiate from time to time on it. However what it does give is a totally transparant pricing structure, that the client understands. If they want to add or reomve a point then they know how much it will cost them and at the end of the job there is no argument over extras etc. Just count it all up and there you have the invoice.

If the job becomes larger i will reduce the cost per point as it becomes more cost effective. but i rarely lose out on jobs, and even if you quote on a price its possible to lose out if a builder messes you about. I work for a few builders on this system and it helps them to budget and quote thier jobs as well so they know when they are looking at a job how much it will cost them.
 
I price some work on per point, try not to when i can but most builders seem to prefer it. Im assuming new build/extension? Only works if you the job's managed properly, ie the builder doesnt have the floor down before you get there...
£35 for switches/pendants, £40 for sockets/standard downlights, £120 for shower's/cookers including connection to appliances, £100 for bonding, £200-£500 for CU depending on spec like rcbo's or split rcd. Add £100 for testing. If ya lose a little on one part u make it up on another. I've never lost money on a job yet, though some work out better than others.
If it's chrome sockets or more expensive lights i normally jus pass them on at cost price on top of the £40 coz i've already allowed for the original socket anyway.
This is for builders if worked with for a while, like others have said loadsa people going in with crazy low prices so might not pick up any new work the way things are...

Hope this helps
 

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