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Having watched the above video, but not having seen them in the flesh I can think of a few questions I would want answered before considering using them.
How do you get the cables out again?
How precise do you have to be in the stripped length of the conductors?
If the conductors are slightly too short and don't make a proper connection is this obvious from the outside?
How do you access the terminals for testing, fault finding, safe isolation?
Is there a version for a standard two way or are you restricted to the switch conversion method?
What size conductors does it work with?

Personally I don't favour things like this as they are restricted to a specific purpose, I would rather have a single joint enclosure which I can use with my choice of connectors to fulfill a range of jobs rather than a range of joint boxes each tailored to a specific purpose.

I also think that if you are pricing jobs so tightly that you have to count the seconds it takes to fit a joint box then you're doing it wrong.
 

I'd be interested to hear what you think of the ClickFlow connectors. I haven't used them yet so am curious. As you say, they're reasonably priced at under £1.50 each.

Well, that was an interesting day :)

I have mixed feelings about the ClickFlow connectors. I like the ease with which they can be connected/disconnected, but there is no strain relief. A 1.5mm is snug, but not tight and a 1.0mm is obviously even looser. I ended up using cable ties squeezed through a couple of slots in the body which worked nicely. They are a bit on the small side and one of the connections (the one acting as ceiling rose) was very tight.

As I say, mixed feelings. Do I think they saved me any time? Possibly, but I'm not convinced it's enough to switch from my usual method which is Wago boxes and Wago lighting boxes, with the lighting connectors.

The other gripe I have is I needed two different screwdrivers when terminating the plug part that connects to the lamp. And I just couldn't find a driver that fitted nicely and didn't keep popping out of the screws.

I'd be interested in hearing other peoples experiences and advice :)
 
Well, that was an interesting day :)

I have mixed feelings about the ClickFlow connectors. I like the ease with which they can be connected/disconnected, but there is no strain relief. A 1.5mm is snug, but not tight and a 1.0mm is obviously even looser. I ended up using cable ties squeezed through a couple of slots in the body which worked nicely. They are a bit on the small side and one of the connections (the one acting as ceiling rose) was very tight.

As I say, mixed feelings. Do I think they saved me any time? Possibly, but I'm not convinced it's enough to switch from my usual method which is Wago boxes and Wago lighting boxes, with the lighting connectors.

The other gripe I have is I needed two different screwdrivers when terminating the plug part that connects to the lamp. And I just couldn't find a driver that fitted nicely and didn't keep popping out of the screws.

I'd be interested in hearing other peoples experiences and advice :)

I've mainly used them for connecting downlights so that second fix and testing can be done before the light fittings go in, and also for ease of replacement of failed units (not so much of that these days since I stopped fitting LV downlights)
But now the downlights I use come with a similar style connector pre-fitted, so I just use that.

I've also used the four pole version for inline fans in lofts, this satisfies the need for a local means of isolation and also reduces time spent working in the itchy scratchy stuff. The socket can be fitted at first fix, then the fan prepped with flex and plug before putting it in the loft.
But I've also used a rock rose for the same purpose
 
Well, that was an interesting day :)

I have mixed feelings about the ClickFlow connectors. I like the ease with which they can be connected/disconnected, but there is no strain relief. A 1.5mm is snug, but not tight and a 1.0mm is obviously even looser. I ended up using cable ties squeezed through a couple of slots in the body which worked nicely. They are a bit on the small side and one of the connections (the one acting as ceiling rose) was very tight.

As I say, mixed feelings. Do I think they saved me any time? Possibly, but I'm not convinced it's enough to switch from my usual method which is Wago boxes and Wago lighting boxes, with the lighting connectors.

The other gripe I have is I needed two different screwdrivers when terminating the plug part that connects to the lamp. And I just couldn't find a driver that fitted nicely and didn't keep popping out of the screws.

I'd be interested in hearing other peoples experiences and advice :)

Thanks for your review SC.

I think I'll stick with Wago connectors, Hager torpedo boxes and the dozen or so QuickWire boxes that I have left in stock.:)
 
The other gripe I have is I needed two different screwdrivers when terminating the plug part that connects to the lamp. And I just couldn't find a driver that fitted nicely and didn't keep popping out of the screws.

I'd be interested in hearing other peoples experiences and advice :)
I find that modulo1 screwdrivers work OK for the screws, Click do make the connectors with the cable clamps but trying to fit four tiny screws back into the fitting when you are balanced with the light at ceiling level is not fun, pushing the un stripped cable through the clamp and then stripping it is easier but only just. The ones with slots definitely do not hold a cable from being pulled. I wish they had invented tapered cable entries for the terminals, too often trying to get multiple cores into the terminals in the limited space does not go easily. I did notice when changing terminal blocks with tape for click flow connectors that the terminal spacing was the same which was easier with the angled conductors.

The quickwire look OK but price is the overriding factor with easy testing being next, though I suppose I could make up a test block with 4mm sockets and pre stripped T&E attached, so long as the connector was not fully utilised; easier to do with a click flow and also R1+R2 with a L_E link in a Click plug. Having to have a removal tool available to release the cable is just going to be a nuisance.
 
I used the Click CT102c (you must have fat fingers Richard) when replacing ceiling rose for customer luminaire for example. Connexbox Wagobox, for slightly more complex lighting alterations, and recently Connexbox Wagobox-XL for bathrooms with fans, vanity mirrors etc.
 

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