Originally Posted by Murdoch
R2 is best used when doing EICR's to light fittings.

For new installation work the R1+R2 is best, then you can confirm polarity at the same time.


You need to listen and learn what the guy is trying to tell you mate..............he knows what he's talking about.
Out of interest..............how old are you?
and that is not asked in any way shape of form in a patronising fashion you ignorant young idiot..............last few words were a joke btw:)

around 40

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Of course you do. I don't know what it is with trying to avoid doing an R1 + R2.

lol yeah i guess so
 
Of course you do. I don't know what it is with trying to avoid doing an R1 + R2.

O.K. im not trying to avoid you miss uder stand again, but im probably not explaining well either.
If you actually do a complete rewire its easy to do R1+R2, just bare cables hanging
Where as if you change a CU in an existing u still got hanging lights things plugged in, just seems so much more headache......
 
I do, its called cutting corners. A bit like not knowing where the circuits go, what they feed, or bothering to unplug appliances.

Crxp workmanship.

Hope your not referring to me, with your increasing positive input, how can i be cutting corners if im here on this site asking you the correct way to do it!
 
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I do, its called cutting corners. A bit like not knowing where the circuits go, what they feed, or bothering to unplug appliances.

Crxp workmanship.

Lots of people cut corners all the time. Got to re-lable ccu at some point at home. Not labled clearly at all

For reasons unknown 4 bed has 4 lighting circuits.

There is only 11 hallogen+ 9 spots in kitchen

By my reckoning thats under 9amps for all lighting

So why need 4 x b6's

Never come acros it split it right/left upstairs and downstairs before

I asume thats what they have done but without checking im not sure
 
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O.K. im not trying to avoid you miss uder stand again, but im probably not explaining well either.
If you actually do a complete rewire its easy to do R1+R2, just bare cables hanging
Where as if you change a CU in an existing u still got hanging lights things plugged in, just seems so much more headache......

A headace maybe but its a headache you are getting paid for.

Light fittings still connected or for that matter appliances still plugged in will not effect an R1+ R2. Never hear of the path of least resistance.
 
Hope your not referring to me, with your increasing positive input, how can i be cutting corners if im here on this site asking you the correct way to do it!

Not directed to you, but when questions like this get asked its normally a "mask" for doing it quicker, cheaper........
 
Yes R2, so referring to wandering lead. What if you don't have access to R1 and Rn, that was whole point to the question.
Thanks the pict i think you are probably right but whats the formula, would be handy to know.

Sorry? You're asking how to measure R2 just in case you can't get to R1 and Rn? If you can't get to either of those, is there really any point in measuring r2?

On the basis that this could be classed as silly, I'm not reading the rest of the thread, I'm off to the Arms. In fact, I think I may stay there for the foreseeable future.
 
I know this is a Regs. thread but i have to comment...

Hello my little nest of vipers............... I'm all the better for seeing you earlier. :presents3:

GET A F'ING ROOM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
I can understand what you are saying, I presume you are talking PIR here as verification requires R1 + R2, and by compliance you are talking about Zs, as others have said live Zs is an option if safe to do otherwise use the wander lead to measure the resistance of R1 to get your calculated result, perhaps you should ask the forum what to do if you can not isolate the circuit to measure R1 and for safety reasons it is not possible to carry out a live Zs.
 

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R2 option over R1+R2
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