Recommended voltage tester?

[pc1966]

I have a Martindale VT12 voltage tester which is OK, but very quickly I discovered the continuity function is a right PITA. Test for volts on the neutral and it lights up and squeals at you!

Takes a moment to realise it is the continuity LED that has lit, and the squeal is slightly different from the "volts detected" squeal, and all you have found is that you have the expected N-E continuity, but with it detecting anything below 200k ohm even that is not telling you a lot.

So for me when I get another it will be volts-only, but what do folk here think?

 

[Pete999]

I have a Martindale VT12 voltage tester which is OK, but very quickly I discovered the continuity function is a right PITA. Test for volts on the neutral and it lights up and squeals at you!

Takes a moment to realise it is the continuity LED that has lit, and the squeal is slightly different from the "volts detected" squeal, and all you have found is that you have the expected N-E continuity, but with it detecting anything below 200k ohm even that is not telling you a lot.

So for me when I get another it will be volts-only, but what do folk here think?

John Drummond Voltage Indicator, for my tupenceworth.

 

[telectrix]

John Drummond Voltage Indicator, for my tupenceworth.

you ***** dinosaur. . and before you throw your toys out, I have a drummond also.

 

[HexHex]

I have a Fluke T5-1000 which is great
I have never liked them ones with light up rows of lights

 

[Pete999]

you ***** dinosaur. . and before you throw your toys out, I have a drummond also.

Only One Tel? last count three for me

I have a Fluke T5-1000 which is great
I have never liked them ones with light up rows of lights

Why doesn't it look professional? As long as it proves the voltage why would you need an all singing all dancing waste of hard earned?

 

[HexHex]

Why doesn't it look professional?

No its not that, its because they do 'Ranges'. I find seeing what the voltage is on a display is much easier for fault finding in certain situations

 

[Pete999]

I have a Fluke T5-1000 which is great
I have never liked them ones with light up rows of lights

If you are proving live or not then use a Voltage indicator, if you are measuring the Volts AC or DC then use a Multi metre
[automerge]1584455947[/automerge]

No its not that, its because they do 'Ranges'. I find seeing what the voltage is on a display is much easier for fault finding in certain situations

Then use a Multi Metre a voltage indicator it is what it is an indicator nothing less. trouble is far to many newbies are sold instruments they don't really require see safe isolation best practice for further information. What would you use in the safe isolation procedure?

 

[HexHex]

I agree they are fine for proving live or not but why carry an additional multi meter (Or MFT) if the T5 does both and also can measure current in its jaws too

Each to their own, I have used both types and that's what I prefer

 

[SparkySy]

I have and still use a Drummond tester for safe isolation, mine was £30 about 10 years ago and saved my bacon from being cooked numerous times!!

 

[Pete999]

I remember getting my first JD VI, I checked it out and constructed my own ( out of interest only) JD the best by far VI in the trade along with the proving unit of course. these testers that profess to be self proving are prone to failure in my opinion, nothing beats the proper test kit.
[automerge]1584456522[/automerge]

I have and still use a Drummond tester for safe isolation, mine was £30 about 10 years ago and saved my bacon from being cooked numerous times!!

Precisely. Well said that man

 

[SparkySy]

You can't really go wrong with them they are simple and don't lie or go into self test when trying to prove things are dead.
Always keep mine close!

 

[pc1966]

You can't really go wrong with them they are simple and don't lie or go into self test when trying to prove things are dead.

That is what I want - do one job and do it properly!

 

[SparkySy]

You can pick them up for next to no money mine came with the proving unit as well for £30.
Saying that you can't really put a price on your own life!

 

[pc1966]

Mostly I have used multimeters for electronics work and that is fine when you are not working on dangerous stuff. The problems I see with using a DMM are:

1. Correctly set on AC volts and working, you live
2. Not working (fused probes blown, etc) and no proving test, you die.
3. Set on DC volts, AC looks near zero, you die
4. Set to current, PFC way above meter capacity, you die [in flames]
5. Set to current/ohms, fused probes per GS38 or PFC manageable, did not notice the "bang", you die [electric shock]

Already have proving unit, will look at getting a Drummond tester next. Any model in particular?

 

[SparkySy]

Mine is the MTL10 but all of them are good reliable solid testers!