Redoing a shower room, should anything be checked? Timer for heated towel rail? | Page 2 | on ElectriciansForums

Discuss Redoing a shower room, should anything be checked? Timer for heated towel rail? in the Electrical Wiring, Theories and Regulations area at ElectriciansForums.net

Well, we have a fused switch to turn the shower's power on/off. But there is no way to turn the extractor fan on/off manually. It's initiated by the shower light being turned on, and then has an intergrated timer to turn off after a few mins.

Why does it need a dedicated switch (isolator)? Is that just a regulation?

The fan has a switched live feed and a permanent live feed if is has a timer. Only way to kill both is to turn off the fuse/mcb for the lighting circuit. Every electrical point needs to be provided with local isolation.
 
haha. Sorry NeiF, that is class. We have to work by these regulations.
If you have an electrical fault and there is a fire, you will get the insurance involved. When they find out that it is due to the electrics they will ask to see all the relevant certificates regarding the work done. When you say that you dont have them they will walk away and give you nothing.

So... The answer is "yes" then I assume?

Can I ask then, how a switch would prevent a fire?
 
If the fan had an internal electrical fault, build up of dust leading to over heating/melting/burning. If the fan needs to be cleaned or worked upon we (the electricians) can turn it off and work on it safely without turning off the upstairs lighting circuit.
 
The fan has a switched live feed and a permanent live feed if is has a timer. Only way to kill both is to turn off the fuse/mcb for the lighting circuit. Every electrical point needs to be provided with local isolation.

What would the fans "local isolation" be then? (Excuse by ignorance/noobness).
 
Can I ask then, how a switch would prevent a fire?

As paul.m says in his post, it is to protect the electrician when working on the fan.
The electrician who you will get round to check all the circuits and give you advise on what you need to do will prevent any fires.
 
Basically a switch. You would need a double pole switch in your case. Dont ask what one of them is, ask the electrician when he looks at the job.

OK.. But what I don't want to end up with is a switch in our bedroom that we never use!?

At the moment we have a pair of switches we just turn on/off togethor. The power to the shower and a light switch. I don't want another switch there (for the fan) which then has to be left on all the time (for it to remain on for a few minutes).
 
Just a regulation? Haha, I've heard it all now. The regs aren't just an inconvenience, they are there so that an installation is safe. Cya later. :(
 
Sounds like you need to have re-wired and place the iso switch outside the bathroom above the door out of sight, this is the norm for people that dont want switches everywhere.
 
OK.. But what I don't want to end up with is a switch in our bedroom that we never use!?

At the moment we have a pair of switches we just turn on/off togethor. The power to the shower and a light switch. I don't want another switch there (for the fan) which then has to be left on all the time (for it to remain on for a few minutes).

Thanks you for your concern regarding the safety of any electrician who has to look at the fan....
Maybe we should abolish seats for kids in cars as they done look good as well.
 
Neil what town or city are you in? There will be a member near you that can pop around and advise/quote you.

I've got an electrician booked now...

Just like to be armed with the right questions/knowledge if I can...
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks you for your concern regarding the safety of any electrician who has to look at the fan....
Maybe we should abolish seats for kids in cars as they done look good as well.

Why the sarcasm? I'm simply trying to understand the problem? So if we simply need a dedicated switch for the fan, could that be tucked away in the loft where the fan is?

Note: I know for a fact the current can be turned off to the fan by turning off the appropriate jumper/circuit on the fuse box?!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
also you will probably have to fuse the fan down to 3A, should tell you in your instructions when you buy the fan what it needs to be fused at, i fitted 1 the other week which had to be fused down to 1A, wholesalers didn't have them ended up getting them of fleabay and had to wait 3days before i could energise, pain in the backside having to do a 5 mile trip just to put a fuse in lol
 
also you will probably have to fuse the fan down to 3A, should tell you in your instructions when you buy the fan what it needs to be fused at, i fitted 1 the other week which had to be fused down to 1A, wholesalers didn't have them ended up getting them of fleabay and had to wait 3days before i could energise, pain in the backside having to do a 5 mile trip just to put a fuse in lol

Planning on using a Airflow icon 30 Eco - https://www.airflow.co.uk/AIR1/AIR1...V SELV Fan Instructions Iss 4_11.11 FINAL.pdf

It mentions a 3A fuse with an isolator (after the fuse and light power/trigger)? - So if we can put the isolator switch for the fan up in the loft (out of way) with a 3A fuse built into it?
 

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