RELAYS - Latch V Momentary types | Page 2 | on ElectriciansForums

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If your ignition light is the same as a car then the light lights because it gets a poz from the ignition and a neg through the alternator windings. Then when the engine is running the ignition light goes out because it has 2 positives. Therefor the alternator to ignition light wire changes polarity and can be used to cancel the starter motor on a remote start. Neg with engine off, poz with engine running.

Boydy
 
only problem there if starter motor can reach threshold of alternator on start, in speed..... it will switch off. you need a positive action when engine fires
 
idea....frequency to voltage converter (ie rev counter)...on startup can only see engine producing 2/3 hz`s, when running idling will be 100 to 200 hz`s rev/min, starter switches off
 
Tazz you have lost me.

I think simplest way is timed current max 3-4 secs. So no matter what happens, power is cut to the starter relay and also the motor.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hey guys.

As the BT switch delivers 4 x 30A - could I have to of them wired together to push 60A to the main controller?

Is that safe? What's the best way to physically wire that together?

Then I could lose a relay and simplify it further. Or is a relay preferable?

See pic:


12497082373_b6b1a34cfe_o.png
 
Problem is if one fails, which is uncommon but can happen ...the one poor relay gets the full load, not good....get the right size relay and if it does fail, it fails safe.
 
Hi guys.

What does it mean when a device must 'drain to +12v' ???

i have a switch that has 3 terminals. The manufacturer says 1 is earth, 1 is direct to battery +12v and 1 drains to +12v

Any help appreciated.
 

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