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Ocan

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Hi,

Our old oven was plugged into a standard socket behind the adjoining unit with a 13amp fuse standard plug, the hob has it's own isolator box connected to the consumer unit - I'm presuming the socket the oven was plugged into is the down ring but I'm not certain (chef not electrician here!)

I took the plug off the old oven and wired the new oven to it, plugged it in and everything seems to be working fine - my worry now is that I've read the specifications on the new and old oven and the new oven is different.

The old oven was 230v 50hz 2980w

The new oven is 220-240v 50/60hz 2200w

I'm worried that

1) the 13amp fuse is too powerful for the appliance and
2) surely the oven shouldn't have been on that ring in the first place?

Any advice would be brilliant, losing the oven this close to Xmas already has my wife stressed as it is and I just want it right.

Cheers

Alan
 
if the old oven worked with no problems, the new one will be fine. it's 25% less load. if you are concerned, a quick visit by a local sparks would allay your fears.
 
Hi,

Our old oven was plugged into a standard socket behind the adjoining unit with a 13amp fuse standard plug, the hob has it's own isolator box connected to the consumer unit - I'm presuming the socket the oven was plugged into is the down ring but I'm not certain (chef not electrician here!)

I took the plug off the old oven and wired the new oven to it, plugged it in and everything seems to be working fine - my worry now is that I've read the specifications on the new and old oven and the new oven is different.

The old oven was 230v 50hz 2980w

The new oven is 220-240v 50/60hz 2200w

I'm worried that

1) the 13amp fuse is too powerful for the appliance and
2) surely the oven shouldn't have been on that ring in the first place?

Any advice would be brilliant, losing the oven this close to Xmas already has my wife stressed as it is and I just want it right.

Cheers

Alan
What or how does the new cooker's instructions state hoe it should be connected, the 13 Amp fuse cannot be to powerful for the cooker, as Tel said in post#2
 
if the old oven worked with no problems, the new one will be fine. it's 25% less load. if you are concerned, a quick visit by a local sparks would allay your fears.

Thanks for the swift reply, the manual says the oven should be earthed (which is wired up in the plug so I'm guessing that's not a problem) but it says it should be "wired into a 10A double pole switched fused spur outlet" - will my like for like swapping and using the same socket as the previous oven (worked fine for 10 years, then last week when we used the grill then turned the oven off it tripped the consumer unit - this fault was reproducible which led us to replacing it) be ok do you think?

Again, cheers!

Al
 
What or how does the new cooker's instructions state hoe it should be connected, the 13 Amp fuse cannot be to powerful for the cooker, as Tel said in post#2

Thanks for replying, I wrote the cooker's instructions above in post 3. My main concern is if there's a problem with the cooker, will the 13amp fuse in the plug not fuse because the cooker because it requires a 10.1amp fuse or will my (6 month old) consumer just trip?

Cheers,

Al
 
"wired into a 10A double pole switched fused spur outlet"

Al

I suspect that’s a bad translation by a foreign manufacturer, or just a lack of knowledge on their part.

Switched fused spurs in the uk use the same fuses as 13A plugs which are commonly available in 3A, 5A and 13A sizes, 10A fuses do exist but are very rare as in practice the difference between them and a 13A fuse is negligible.
 
Thanks very much guys, I tested it with a pepperoni pizza last night (best test of a new oven = pizza, you can see from the colouration of the cheese where the hot spots are) and the house still stands! :)

All the best to you and yours,

Al
 

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