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danny199

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Hi, after having a somewhat bad experience with a previous sparky and having to get the work fixed I'm after some advice with regards to some additional work I'd like done. I don't want to have similar issues. I'm not an electrician, I can wire a dash-cam and that is as far as I want to go, that said, I have been reading up in the hope of educating myself to what should be done so I can avoid problems next time.

We are planning to have the house rewired (all but kitchen, as that's a job for later...), built 1960s and still have the original cables. I have been reading up on stuff, given my last bad experience and have a few questions so I can make sure the work is done correctly this time.

1. We have a few of those rubbish paramount walls, with cardboard in the middle. Should I ask for metal conduit or is the mirroring rule enough?

2. We would like some outside lights to be put up, standard lantern light by the front door (sensor) and one by the back door that we can switch on from the kitchen/living room. They will need to drill through the cavity etc, should they use a conduit? Reading up, some say no, some say yes?

3. New boiler arriving soon, should this now be on a separate circuit/ring, or whatever its technically called?

4. Cables in loft, currently they are buried under insulation, attached to the rafters with metal clips. I have read that the cables get hot and lose power (OK, i know that's not the technical term) so should be laid above the insulation but some say it doesn't matter. If they are laid over the insulation, should they be in conduits to protect an idiot like me catching on them at a later date when putting junk up there. I can understand the sparky's preference to not spend hours up there attaching clips to rafters etc and just laying the cables over the insulation but is that the correct way?

5. Wired smoke alarms, really necessary? I was thinking just battery powered ones. If yes, should they be on a separate circuit or on a lighting circuit? Again, opinion seems divided.

I know that's a lot, but just want to make sure the work is done properly this time round, so I can avoid problems.
 
Don't skimp on smoke alarms, think about carbon monoxide detector for gas boiler as well.
[automerge]1567180718[/automerge]

We're posh round here now, wood cls battens, or metal frames.:cool:
[automerge]1567180777[/automerge]
Don't like this new merging thing @Dan :)
Wood in walls!.....man that’s upper class :tearsofjoy:
 
If fully rewiring then wired. Radio links are designed for when disruption to the building fabric is undesirable, say if just adding smoke alarms but no other work is being done, or for awkward cable runs.

I'd use the Aico 160 series with 10 year lithium battery backup.
There's a new 3000 series now too. Worth looking at but I suppose a bit dearer.
 
Hi, after having a somewhat bad experience with a previous sparky and having to get the work fixed I'm after some advice with regards to some additional work I'd like done. I don't want to have similar issues. I'm not an electrician, I can wire a dash-cam and that is as far as I want to go, that said, I have been reading up in the hope of educating myself to what should be done so I can avoid problems next time.

We are planning to have the house rewired (all but kitchen, as that's a job for later...), built 1960s and still have the original cables. I have been reading up on stuff, given my last bad experience and have a few questions so I can make sure the work is done correctly this time.

1. We have a few of those rubbish paramount walls, with cardboard in the middle. Should I ask for metal conduit or is the mirroring rule enough? If you're rewiring it might be worth replacing these with stud walls, however plastic conduit would suffice.

2. We would like some outside lights to be put up, standard lantern light by the front door (sensor) and one by the back door that we can switch on from the kitchen/living room. They will need to drill through the cavity etc, should they use a conduit? Reading up, some say no, some say yes? If drilling through the cavity conduit could be used but any holes should be resealed to prevent cold spots and condensation gathering in the backbox. The holes should also be drilled at a slight angle to prevent water running in with a drip loop on the cable outside if required. As a minimum all outdoor circuits should be wired in a suitable cable such as flex, standard grey twin and earth (T&E) cable has a very poor UVA rating and degrades over time.

3. New boiler arriving soon, should this now be on a separate circuit/ring, or whatever its technically called? Not necessarily, it can be fed by a fused spur from a socket circuit with a suitably rated fuse installed. Some plumbers ever stick a plug on it and plug it into the nearest outlet. However if rewiring I would consider a dedicated circuit.

4. Cables in loft, currently they are buried under insulation, attached to the rafters with metal clips. I have read that the cables get hot and lose power (OK, i know that's not the technical term) so should be laid above the insulation but some say it doesn't matter. If they are laid over the insulation, should they be in conduits to protect an idiot like me catching on them at a later date when putting junk up there. I can understand the sparky's preference to not spend hours up there attaching clips to rafters etc and just laying the cables over the insulation but is that the correct way? Lofts circuits are often just thrown in as they're out of site, any decent spark will clip the cables up to prevent accidental damage. When run under insulation we de-rate the cable as it's current carrying capacity is reduced. For example 1.0mm T&E can carry 15 amps when clipped to a wall, if run under insulation this is reduced to 11 amps. It's all to do with heat dissipation, we try and keep our cables from exceeding 70c in normal operation. This is done by putting them on a smaller circuit breaker.

5. Wired smoke alarms, really necessary? I was thinking just battery powered ones. If yes, should they be on a separate circuit or on a lighting circuit? Again, opinion seems divided. If re-wiring then hard wired mains interlinked would be worth installing, these can be powered from a lighting circuit or on their own. However battery detectors are just as good.

I know that's a lot, but just want to make sure the work is done properly this time round, so I can avoid problems.
My comments in this lovely colour above...

Engage several electricians to get quotes and get them round to have a chat, ask them questions such as what scheme are they registered with, will they do Part P notification, are their test instruments calibrated, do they have public liability and indemnity insurance etc etc.

Ideally a new distribution board with full RCBO protection for all circuits rather than a split RCD unit. You may also require surge protection depending upon a risk assessment being carried out.

Don't go for the cheapest quote and do some research on the companies you speak to, Facebook have some good local groups which give much better reviews than some of these rated trader ones.
 
Paramount originally came from the commercial sector used as lightweight office partitions.
The melamine covered will have done the same.

Apart from Strawmit which has conduits formed inside it, Paramount has got to be the easiest wall material to add sockets / switches without the need to chase.
 
"
saw some offcuts in a skip for student accomadation:)"

Great idea that, using a skip for student accommodation!
you'd need a tarpaulin over the top, else students would winge about getting their hair wet. even worse, their tan might run when it rained.
 

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