Ring Video Doorbell Pro with Byron 776

[Abc_plum]

Hi experts

I'm trying to get my Ring Video Doorbell Pro to work with my Byron 776 chime.

This was working fine for 3 months but now I'm getting a humming sound mainly during the evening.
Doing some research online I've managed to work out its the coils getting magnetized causing the vibration.

I've followed a you tube video who has got his to work without issue.

The set up is as follows
Original Ring transformer in din rail in the CU. 240v at bottom and connection 1&3 used at the top giving 15-17v


The black and yellow wires are connected to the bell.

I've read the argument of why not just use the chime that ring provide. I really don't want to and would prefer this. I hope someone can help.

Oh and I'm a gas safe engineer with part P but not an electrical like you guys.

Really hope someone can help please.

Regards
Al

 

[marconi]

The buzzing you hear from the Byron 776 doorbell is because the new 15-17V ac supply from the transformer in the CU is connected across the secondary of the 8V ac secondary winding of the doorbell's integral transformer. The new transformer is energising the doorbell transformer - YOU SHOULD TAKE GREAT CARE BECAUSE THE PRIMARY OF THE DOORBELL TRANSFORMER WILL BE LIVE AT CIRCA 250V AC.

Before going any further - has the original 240V ac supply to the Byron doorbell been safely disconnected and safely made redundant?

What you need to do is remove the blue and yellow from the bottom right terminal (No 2), wrap some insulation tape around it and then tuck it to one side.

You don't need to do what I say next. Do you have a multimeter with an Ohms range? If you do - turn off the mcb for the new (and old) transformer(s) for the doorbell, switch to the lowest Ohms range and then place one probe on the top right terminal of the doorbell(No 1). Now check for continuity - a low resistance reading - between this terminal and the other three (numbered 0, 2 and 3). I suspect you will find that No1 is not connected to anything in which case you could simply relocate the blue and yellow from No 2 to No 1 rather than remove and wrap in tape.

 

[Abc_plum]

The buzzing you hear from the Byron 776 doorbell is because the new 15-17V ac supply from the transformer in the CU is connected across the secondary of the 8V ac secondary winding of the doorbell's integral transformer. The new transformer is energising the doorbell transformer - YOU SHOULD TAKE GREAT CARE BECAUSE THE PRIMARY OF THE DOORBELL TRANSFORMER WILL BE LIVE AT CIRCA 250V AC.

Before going any further - has the original 240V ac supply to the Byron doorbell been safely disconnected and safely made redundant?

What you need to do is remove the blue and yellow from the bottom right terminal (No 2), wrap some insulation tape around it and then tuck it to one side.

You don't need to do what I say next. Do you have a multimeter with an Ohms range? If you do - turn off the mcb for the new (and old) transformer(s) for the doorbell, switch to the lowest Ohms range and then place one probe on the top right terminal of the doorbell(No 1). Now check for continuity - a low resistance reading - between this terminal and the other three (numbered 0, 2 and 3). I suspect you will find that No1 is not connected to anything in which case you could simply relocate the blue and yellow from No 2 to No 1 rather than remove and wrap in tape.

You sir are a legend... Thank You very much!

As you suspected there was no resistance between No.1 and (0/2/3) so I've connected the yellow & blue wires to No.1

I can't believe it was something so simple, I hope I'm not jumping the gun but what you said makes perfect sense now. I will be keeping a close eye ear on it, to hear for any buzzing.

Just to clarify this is a completely new install but I wanted a standard chime (Ding Dong) in the house rather than using the chime Ring provide.
There was no 240v at the Byron chime, only the green and blue 15v from the Ring transformer inside the cu.
It's labled 15v but I've tested the transformer with the multimeter and it fluctuates between 17.5-18.5v which is strange.

Thanks again for your help and clear instructions.

 

[Abc_plum]

Just an update.
After connecting the yellow & blue wires to No.1 on the chime I was still getting the humming sound but not at the same decibels as before which is an improvement.

I've now removed it from No.1 and wrapped some insulation tape and tucked it to the side.
Will be listening out for any sounds.

Been in contact with the person who had done the youtube video and he has also confirmed he has the same problem of it humming. I'm hoping to resolve this so I can also help him.

Does anyone know if the Pro Power Kit V2 that comes with the box can help in anyway.
If so where it should be connected?

 

[marconi]

With your multimeter set to Ohms, could you measure the resistance of the the chime's coil please? Disconnect one end of the coil first so it is only the resistance of the coil you measure - remove the connection at top left (black wire) and measure between top left and bottom left.

Do you have a soldering iron and some solder and the skill to use these? If you have then you could make up this circuit which I think will work to stop the hum from the chime solenoid. It disconnects the chime solenoid until the Ring video door push is pressed yet at other times still provides a path for ac current to keep the Ring internal battery charged. It is the charging current through the chime solenoid which is causing the hum. In this circuit it mostly passes through the 20 Ohm power resistor until the push is pressed.

May need some adjustments to work but a starter for ten......Or something like this.

 

[Abc_plum]

Hi Thanks for the response.
Even after disconnecting the yellow and Blue wires from No.1 it still making the humming sound. Which only happens in the evening, for some reason.

I think I will have to try your circuit, as I do have a soldering iron and some basic skills.
Just need to understand your diagram, to be able to follow it
What is it that I need to buy and where do I need to solder it to in the chime?

Would the pro power kit make and difference?

 

[marconi]

By pro power kit do you mean:

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71idIv+TdTL.pdf

If you already have one then fit it to see if it works. You connect it across the black and green terminals/wires or top left and bottom left of the chime. See attachment:


I don't know what is inside the power kit to say whether it will reduce the hum. The Ring support line might know.

If it does not work then we can try my little circuit. I probably have the components - I will check today.

 

[marconi]

I have the components. If I assembled the circuit then sent it to you and it worked - would you make a small donation to the NSPCC?

 

[Abc_plum]

Hi

I attached the Pro power kit as you advised but the chime doesn't sound anymore.
So I think we will have to try your device.

I'm happy to make a donation no problem.
Appreciate your help.

 

[marconi]

Abc_plum: In your #1 right hand image - what are the dimensions of the space above the terminals where the two wires come through? As width x height x depth in mm please.

 

[Abc_plum]

Hi
Do you mean in the chime box?
If so then its 70mm width x 50mm height x 50mm depth.
Thanks

 

[marconi]

Abc-plum: I made the little circuit this afternoon and it seems to work when I use a 12V buzzer and lab variable dc voltage power supply. Next test is to try it with an ac bell power supply which I found in a drawer a few minutes ago. Then I will insert the circuit for a week into the wiring for our home's ring video door pushes which sound a bell not a chime. If that test is satisfactory I'll post it to you with some instructions.

I will try to PM you to establish private contact.

 

[Abc_plum]

Hi

I've received you message but not able to reply.
Is it possible you can email me?

 

[marconi]

Abc_plum: yes - I will email you tomorrow.