Running 50x50 metal trunking

[leonc1963]

Hi

I am in the process of refitting the kitchen that is also a renovation of the kitchen so taking down the old meter cupboard to give more room in this ex council house.

Now as part of this I have an electrician who is separating the kitchen from the downstairs ring main and installing a new CU and circuits so have taken down the old artex ceiling to assist the electrician in running cables.

I have also chased all the vertical cable runs and boxes to safe some money he and his apprentice was happy with that.

Now whilst the ceiling is down I also want to power the brick shed which is about 700mm from the house back wall with a gate linking the two so he said he could run an SWA cable from the new CU through the joists for about 5m to other end of kitchen and through the wall and come out above the gate and into top corner of shed.

Now the cable although it is 10mm SWA it needs additional protection so a metal trunking will be positioned above the gate and between home back wall and shed.

I said I would fit this for him whilst he is doing first fix in the kitchen so what is the best way to secure this length of metal trunking to the walls.

The shed will eventually be turned into an outside bar by removing the window and fit a roller shutters so that is the reason for powering the shed but that's for another day.

Would this do the job if I drilled some holes for screws in the flange part or is there a dedicated fitting for each end of the trunking

https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/4689013-50mm-x-50mm-ip4x-flange-sold-in-1-s

 

[westward10]

Why do you need to put it in trunking?

 

[leonc1963]

Why do you need to put it in trunking?

So it is stronger instead of a cable dangling over the gate.

 

[littlespark]

SWA has enough mechanical protection, so all you need is something to support the cable.

If this is crossing in open air, you’ll need something stronger than even steel trunking as this can buckle if only supported at each end.

I take it burying the cable isn’t an option

 

[DefyG]

A simple catenary wire is probably your best option.

 

[PS Electrics]

A simple catenary wire is probably your best option.

Tray is an option

 

[leonc1963]

A simple catenary wire is probably your best option.

Great idea and see others on screwfix forum have used this method, does the electrician just use cable ties to secure the swa to it.

Thank you this is a lot simpler.

 

[littlespark]

Catenary wire is the standard, but you need a solid wall at each end as it’s pulled under tension.
Yes, just cake tie it up.

Tray would be just as likely to buckle like trunking. They both have maximum fixing distances, so spanning over a pathway would be too far between fixings.

 

[James]

If it’s under 3m then a piece of unistrut is often a good solution.

 

[PS Electrics]

Tray would be just as likely to buckle like trunking. They both have maximum fixing distances, so spanning over a pathway would be too far between fixings.

Its 700mm distance isn't it? If Tray wasn't strong enough then like James said unistrut should be fine.

 

[UNG]

If it’s under 3m then a piece of unistrut is often a good solution.

If it is under 6m then you could still use unistrut

 

[UNG]

Tray would be just as likely to buckle like trunking. They both have maximum fixing distances, so spanning over a pathway would be too far between fixings.

RF6 heavy duty cable tray would be ok it wouldn't buckle like trunking

 

[leonc1963]

Catenary wire is the standard, but you need a solid wall at each end as it’s pulled under tension.
Yes, just cake tie it up.

Tray would be just as likely to buckle like trunking. They both have maximum fixing distances, so spanning over a pathway would be too far between fixings.

Yes have solid brick walls both ends

 

[Simon47]

I think a length of unistrut would look neatest. Put it open side up, drop the cable inside (check sizes first, offhand I'mnot sure if 10mm SWA will fit), you just have a smooth metal bar showing. Leave at least bracket a little loose to allow for movement/thermal expansion.

Drill inline at each end, with the hole sloping upwards (so rainwater runs outwards rather than inwards) and the cable needn't be visible at all.
There's a plastic strip you can close the slot with, that'll keep UV off the cable.

But if you do that, do you need SWA ? Unless another part of the run needs the protection, the bit across the gap doesn't need it.

You can get different styles of Unistrut, full size or low profile, solid or slotted back. Low profile will have enough strength, slotted would let water drain freely (but wouldn't give the smooth look).

Once it's weathered a while, you can paint it if you want to.

Cable tray or basket isn't designed for it's aethetics.

 

[leonc1963]

I think a length of unistrut would look neatest. Put it open side up, drop the cable inside (check sizes first, offhand I'mnot sure if 10mm SWA will fit), you just have a smooth metal bar showing. Leave at least bracket a little loose to allow for movement/thermal expansion.

Drill inline at each end, with the hole sloping upwards (so rainwater runs outwards rather than inwards) and the cable needn't be visible at all.
There's a plastic strip you can close the slot with, that'll keep UV off the cable.

But if you do that, do you need SWA ? Unless another part of the run needs the protection, the bit across the gap doesn't need it.

You can get different styles of Unistrut, full size or low profile, solid or slotted back. Low profile will have enough strength, slotted would let water drain freely (but wouldn't give the smooth look).

Once it's weathered a while, you can paint it if you want to.

Cable tray or basket isn't designed for it's aethetics.

Thank you, just had a thought, am doing to need water in there too for a Belfast sink as it's as I said going to be a bar so would a 15mm pipe fit in this too?