Running a halogen lighting circuit query….. | on ElectriciansForums

Discuss Running a halogen lighting circuit query….. in the DIY Electrical Advice area at ElectriciansForums.net

W

Warehouse

Hello all,

New poster for this forum and forgive me as this question is more for the DIY section but for some reason I can't post on there.

I am installing a downlighting circuit in my bedroom for a walk in wardrobe. Whilst I will have no problem wiring it all up I would like some advice on the correct cable to use.

I am going to run it off a lamp socket (might as well make use of them as they are dotted all over the gaff!), the 3 round pin types that are powered off a main light switch.

I will be using 3 lamps in total and they will be between 1-2 metre space between them.

What type of lighting would you recommend? Halogen or LED?

What type of cable should I use for this circuit?

Spent half hour staring at cable types in B&Q today then realised it would be better (and probably safer) to ask people who are much more clued up than me.
 
You now have access to the DIY forum.

Can you describe the route the cable will take from the lighting socket to the actual light fittings? If you're going to fit a plug then standard 3-core 1mm flex (cabtyre) should be adequate. I'd also suggest awide angled GU10 LED lamp, it's much more energy efficient, lasts for years and doesn't get red hot like halogens do.
 
Thanks Marvo.

Sorry for the late reply, been away.

Im going to go with the LED like you suggest. In fact Im am thinking of replacing the Halognens I have in the hallway and bathroom with LED's now I have read up on them. Is it possible to retrofit them by just changing the fittings and transformer?

The space the the wardrobe is set in is a horseshoe shaped frame with the socket being on the left hand side closest to where to door is, the route the cable will take will be from the socket, up the wall about 2 metres into the cavity of the framing for the wardrobe. It will then run about half a metre to the first downlight on the left hand side, then a metre and half to the next downlight on the back part of the frame and the another metre/metre and half to the last one on the right hand side of the frame. So looking at about 5-6 metres worth of cable for the job in total.
 
Hi
Yes, you can buy MR16 12 volt LED lamps that look like the lamps you describe and will probably be the same physical size as the existing ones. Check all dimensions first as not all LED lamps will fit all fittings. The chances are high that you will need to change transformers for LED drivers. If the transformers you have are the older heavy wound type they should be OK for any LED lamps that can be run from a 12Volt AC supply. The AC bit is important. Some will only work with a DC supply. Even with AC rated LEDs, If your transformers are electronic - rectangular or oval shape and weigh very little- the new LED lamps will probably be under the minimum load specification of the transformer. This is usually around 10-20 watts for a 60 watt transformer. Sometimes transformers may be marked VA instead of Watts or W.
Thinks you may want to consider for wardrobe lighting:
Heat. Halogen lamps have a minimum lamp to illuminated surface distance. This can be between 0.5 and 1 metre (check the box) Too close and you risk burning the contents of the wardrobe (not to mention the rest of the house too)
I agree LED is probably best. If light level is not critical, you could consider fitting garden deck lights. These are easy to install and may contribute anaesthetically.
Strip LED lighting is also becoming popular. These come on a self adhesive flexible tape about 10mm wide. They run from a plug in adaptor and strips and can be 'daisy chained' tiny LEDs are spaced at 10 - 50mm intervals depending on the type and can be cut usually every 3rd LED The outdoor waterproof type is probably better if they are to be seen, the indoor type if they are to be concealed.
Hope this helps
 
if replacing MR16's i'd rip the transformers out. get GU 10 holders and then fit GU10 LEDs.
 
Had I never done it before, I would agree telectrix.
I found it a real pain on 7 outdoor spots in my own garden. I had GU10 RGB LEDs, but the fittings took 50W MR16s. The GU10 lamp + holder is ever so slightly longer than the MR16 + holder, so I needed to replace the 6mm glass fronts by cutting circles out of 2mm acrylic sheet to keep the weatherproof seal. The mounting holes in the porcelain holders are different dimensions, so the fitting has to be re-drilled. The porcelain cracks if the holes aren't exactly the right spacing when you tighten up the screws. Then I had to add an earth terminal, replace the 2 core with 3 core, and find an ECC to connect it to. I had one, but the OP may not. Granted, converting indoor fittings may be easier, but I reckon it is still more difficult than replacing the transformers. Of course, replacing all the fittings may be a better option...
 

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